SOMETIMES, the beauty in things comes to sharp focus when seen in a different perspective or context. It can be spurred by a peaceful or relaxing environment, one that evokes calmness and beauty. Of course, beauty can also be found in places where there is a bit of danger and adventure. This can even lend to the charm, the appeal of a place.
Underneath all the headlines of violence and death lies a gem known as “Asia’s Latin City”—Zamboanga—an administrative region that is deeply informed by its Spanish past which has since transformed into something that is uniquely Filipino. The people of Zamboanga City, the commercial and industrial center of the region, are peaceful, quiet and quaint, all enduring the ravages of war that has lingered in Mindanao for decades. Their dialect is music to the ears as it sounds like a mash-up of Spanish and Filipino, something definitely distinct and unique.
This is the other side of Zamboanga. A trip to this southern part of the country unveiled sounds and images that we never expected to find, including natural beauties comparable to the best offered by other, more popular locations in the Philippines.
Zamboanga is the sixth most populous and the third largest city by land area in the Philippines and was used as one of Spain’s strongholds in 1569 when the Spaniards first landed in the Philippines. After winning independence from Spain in 1899, the Republic of Zamboanga was established with Zamboangueño Chavacano as its official dialect.
Chavacano is a creole Spanish-based language spoken in certain parts of the Philippines and has survived for about 400 years, making it one of the oldest creole languages in the world. Chavacano also has survived and evolved from the Caviteño and Ermiteño mestizos—a language now considered extinct in the modern world. Contrary to common knowledge, since Zamboanga was one of the first places to be inhabited by the Spaniards, most of the locals of Zamboanga are Catholic than Muslim.
Zamboanga has plenty of charms that are both typical and atypical to the other Philippine islands. Besides its generally peace-loving population, Zamboanga is famous for certain sites that continue to stir a sense of nationalism and are a source of great pride among locals. Here are my top 3.
THE ZAMBOANGA CITY HALL
THE Zamboanga City Hall was first built in 1905 and was completed in 1907, and it is where the city mayor holds office today. Built in the Spanish colonial style, it is not only a landmark of the city but also the entire archipelago of Mindanao and Sulu. It was a bastion of power throughout the history of Mindanao, and was once the capital of the whole Mindanao region. Its Spanish-influenced architecture is due to the city’s Hispanic traditions which, up to this day, the locals are still practicing. The site has been declared a National Historical Site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.
FORT PILAR
ALSO known as the Real Fuerza de Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza (Royal Fort of Our Lady of the Pillar of Zaragoza), Fort Pilar was a military defense fortress similar to that of Intramuros in Manila. Built in the 17th century by the Spanish colonial government, the fort is now considered a regional branch of the National Museum of the Philippines. The fort today has become a major landmark in the province of Zamboanga, and a significant part of its cultural heritage. The bastion was originally built as a wall of defense against pirates, raiders and the fierce Moro warriors of the sultans of Mindanao and Jolo. Here’s a bit of interesting trivia: Because of the lack of laborers to build the fort, people were transferred from Cavite, Bohol, Cebu and Panay to help the Spaniards in its construction. It was here that the beginnings of the Chavacano dialect evolved. Today, the fort is an outdoor Catholic Marian shrine that retained the charm of the ruins against a foreground of lush greens.
SANTA CRUZ BEACH
Whoever would have thought the Philippines has a beach with pink sand?! The Great and Little Santa Cruz Islands, situated in the Basilan Strait, are accessible from the tourist center of Zamboanga via a 15- to 20-minute boat ride. The 4-kilometer beach is famous for its pink coralline sand whose color comes from pulverized red organ pipe corals mixed with white sand. It is the only beach in the Philippines with this feature. The main beach is sometimes decked with vintas, traditional native boats known for their vibrant colorful sails. Snorkeling around the island provides the dazzling spectacle of colorful fishes and corals. On a good day, fishermen visit the island to offer tourists the fresh catch of the day, along with the offer to cook the sea bounty for them. As a side note, what was particularly exciting about our trip was that there was a marine assigned to the group who would notify us of any eventuality. He said that when a red alert goes up, tourists are kept safe in the island until the alert is taken down.
Zamboanga is truly a beautiful province. People have kept and nurtured its inherent charms, and it is a place where Catholics and Muslims live together in peace. I dream of the day when Zamboanga will be on top of the list of the country’s top tourist destinations.
Image credits: Christel Boncan-Constantino