BY Cesar Cruz Jr.
The new Marriott West Wing has something in store for the modern food connoisseurs. With the recent opening of Man Ho, its premier Chinese restaurant, taste buds will be soaring high in delight with the food meticulously prepared by Chef Law Wui Wing.
The esteemed chef, who has joined the Marriott Hotel Manila in 2014, has made a name for himself with the kind and quality of food he serves. Live abalone from Hong Kong, Alaskan king crabs weighing 5 kilos each, braised bird’s nest in a broth simmered with Chinese ham for at least five hours and buchi stuffed with Ferrero Rocher chocolate—Chef Law has whipped them all for special occasions. It is no wonder that grand Chinese Banquets for up to 1,800 people (at P6,000 per person) have become common events at Marriott Hotel Manila.
At a media lunch, this writer got to savor some of the appetizing dishes made by Chef Law and his team of seasoned chefs. Three kinds of dim sum were served— siomai, steamed chicken feet and har gao. The bite-sized delights proved to be big in taste. The siomai, as Chef Law shared, are steamed fresh and not frozen. Made with only the good stuff, the siomai is topped with fish roe, instead of a diced carrot. The chicken feet, with its translucent-like bones, provide one of the tastiest dim sum treat if one enjoys cartilage and skin. The plump and juicy har gao is an easy favorite among the diners. Chef Law shares the credit with Du Wen Bo, a specially trained chef who previously worked at Beijing Marriott Hotel City Wall. The dumplings are cooked only upon order and are served piping hot with chili-bean sauce.
On a side note, a kitchen tour revealed that a marble table top (instead of wood) is used in preparing the dim sum for better hygiene.
The show-stopper was the roasted goose “Hong Kong-style”. “We stuff the goose with Chinese herbs. Then we put it in front of a fan for about 10 hours, so that the skin will be very dry, before we put it in the oven,” Chef Law reveals. However, there is more to it than just the crisp, beautiful skin that makes the dish so delectable. Underneath the skin is a very thin layer of fat that adds texture and gives the goose an almost irresistible flavor. In fact, it is so good, it can do away with the accompanying plum sauce.
Among the main courses served, the beef tenderloin with bell pepper in black pepper sauce stood out with its unbelievable tender-beef texture that went well with the crunchy grilled red and green peppers.
Another favorite is the Poached Boneless Wild Pink Garoupa with Pumpkin Sauce. Chef Law favors wild fish for its smoother texture over the cultivated ones.
The dish is a play on different textures, as it is served with cloud ear, enoki and broccoli.
The soup has a very delicate balanced taste.
Culinary Background and Philosophy
The success Chef Law is reaping could be attributed to his burning passion for his work stemming from a tender age. The Hong Kong native has been cooking in Chinese kitchens since he was 15 years old. He honed his skills in the best restaurants in Hong Kong and Japan. Soon, he became executive Chinese chef at the JW Marriott China Hotel in Guangzhou. The Man Ho restaurant he opened in Shanghai was named one of the top 10 Cantonese restaurants for three consecutive years by Shanghai Modern Weekly.
Another thing that Chef Law has going for him is that he insists only on the best and the freshest ingredients. “I always make sure of the freshness of the ingredients,” Law beams. He imports many of the seafood, such as the king prawns and crabs, from Hong Kong and Japan; pigeons and suckling pigs are imported from China. More impressively, he goes to Chinatown himself to buy almonds, which he grinds down to dust to make his authentic almond-cream dessert.
With all the praises Chef Law has received, he does not rest on his laurels. “I always talk to the guests, because I’m the one who knows everything about the Chinese food we serve. I make sure they’re happy. If they’re happy, then I’m happy.”
Rightly so, when it becomes hard to pick a favorite dish, you know you are dining at some place special. Kudos to Chef Law, happiness is just a food trip away.
■ Man Ho is at the new Marriott West Wing with connection to the Main Hotel and the Marriott Grand Ballroom. Visit www.manilamarriott.com.