The Cordillera highland region is arguably the most exotic in the archipelago with its majestic mountain ranges, rugged nature-based adventures, centuries-old indigenous cultures, and the iconic Rice Terraces, one of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites.
But one rich aspect of the Cordilleran way of life which has been largely unappreciated is its equally-exotic and distinct cuisine which has been handed down across generations.
To showcase the region’s rich but understated rich culinary heritage, the Department of Tourism and the City Government of Baguio recently held the Mangan Taku Cordillera Food Fair. Now on its third staging since 2019, the event which literally means “let’s eat” is a regional version of the DOT’s national food tourism program which seeks to highlight the diversity and uniqueness of heirloom dishes in the grassroots.
This year’s food fest is dubbed the “Watwat” Edition which focused on a traditional way of cooking meat which is an integral part of the Cordilleran custom in food preparation. Watwat is the popular chunks of pork boiled in a large pot minus the spices which are served to guests and shared within the community during any occasion.
Baguio once again played host to the four-day event which saw 20 food exhibitors from the provinces of Abra, Apayao, Benguet, Ifugao, Kalinga and Mountain Province showcasing local food products and indigenous cuisines.
Apart from being the country’s Summer Capital, Baguio is also haven for food trip dining with its wide array of traditional, fusion, gourmet and international offerings which also reflects its being a Unesco Creative City.
In keeping with time-honored tribal tradition, Mangan Taku opened with a mad-mad, an indigenous prayer for a successful event, afterwhich the watwat was served by the hosts to formally welcome the guests.
On top of the ubiquitous watwat, exhibitors offered diverse cuisine ranging from viands, snacks, desserts, beverages, and appetizers, incorporating the distinct flavor of the region.
Seven chefs from all over the region converged in the City of Pines to take part in the Chefs Competition as they interpret and give the watwat a fresh and contemporary rendition. Each participating chef crafted their own entry using local ingredients and executing their specialties by combining traditional and modern cooking techniques.
After the smoke of the battle of the chefs has literally settled down, the Slow Food Community in Pasil topped the contest with their “Inanchila,” a famous local delicacy in Kalinga province. Chefs Rowena Gonnay and Rizalyn Dangiw explained that they chose to highlight the globally-recognized indigenous dish for its unique manner of preservation.
Another winning group is the Kafagway Culinary Team of the University of Baguio’s School of International Hospitality and Tourism Management composed of Chefs Benz Dasalla, Alexander Molintas, and Aileen Carillo.
The group rendered a modern take of the watwat mixing the traditional taste that the meat brings with modern techniques, recipes, and styles. Their winning menu includes Smoked Cordilleran Sausage for appetizer, Beetroot Carpaccio with Mountain Greens, Sagada Orange, Fresh Homemade Cheese, and Dayap Vinaigrette for salad, and Modern “Watwat” with Crispy Pork Skin Served with Pinakpakan Medley in Pegion Pea Sauce for entrée.
According to DOT regional director Jovi Ganongan, Mangan Taku is a culinary journey that highlights the vast culinary tradition of the Cordilleras that must be appreciated, preserved, and promoted.
She said the that the event is in line World Food Travel Association’s thrust of promoting “Food tourism is the act of traveling for a taste of place in order to get a sense of place.”
Meanwhile, Baguio City Mayor Benjamin Magalong cited importance of the food tourism program in helping the tourism sector bounce back from the Covid-19 pandemic.
He pointed out that the food festival was institutionalized in 2019 based on City Ordinance No. 81 declaring every Second day of April wherein the Cordilleran cuisine will be highlighted.
He noted that the said proclamation seeks to promote the appreciation, preservation and promotion of Philippine culinary traditions and treasures, ensuring the transfer of knowledge to future generations, and support various industries, entrepreneurs, and agricultural communities.
Ganongan added to build on the gains of Mangan Taku, the DOT will also launch the “Mountain Cook Out Tour” as a new experience for adventurous travelers, and would involve chefs and cooks from the region.
Tour operators will be tapped to formulate package tours which will showcase the culinary and natural attractions of the different localities where heirloom dishes originated. Among to be showcased are farm-to-table dishes and “slow food” delicacies cooked from locally grown crops which refrain from using commercial ingredients.
With its exotic culture and mouthwatering cuisine, the Cordillera region has just come to the more exciting part.