I grew up in a small town up North, and in my heart I will always be a probinsyana, never mind the years my family and I spent moving back and forth in highly urbanized cities in Metro Manila. At the back of my mind, there’s only been one perpetual residence scribbled at the “others” field of the address tab in my biodata, which is Nueva Ecija.
To the rest of the country, the north is a gargantuan estate of mountainous terrains and alluvial plains. Its famous sunsets and Spanish-colonial landmarks draw in the occasional backpackers. But for born-and-raised Norte children, know that beyond these, the reason one keeps coming back to are the stories that people tell and the food they serve. Up there, there’s always room for guests at the dining table.
I was up north recently for work as the San Miguel Pure Foods Culinary Center (SMPFCC), the food service firm under the San Miguel Food and Beverage Inc., teamed up with the Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEx) management to bring media guests to various northern provinces—a trip that culminated in Baguio City.
The event was geared toward highlighting destinations that were previously off the tourism grid as local and international tourists flock the more popular beach islands in the South, like El Nido and Boracay. Moreover, the ongoing development of TPLEx, the 88-kilometer four-lane expressway that connects Central to Northern Luzon, has helped in opening up opportunities for stops that once would have been inaccessible.
“There has always been a strong food culture in this part of the country, one that continually evolves. The provinces have so much to offer,” said SMPFCC head Llena Arcenas-Tan, citing how food tourism would help the region’s tourism sector: “It’s a way for [tourists] to immerse themselves in its culture and heritage.”
The first stop of the trip was Nampicuan in Nueva Ecija, home to the Sanctuary of the Holy Face, which possesses a replica of the Holy Veil of Manoppello. The veil is believed to be an imprint of the face of Jesus Christ, ostensibly the cloth with which Saint Veronica wiped the face of Jesus during His agonies in Golgotha.
The parish priest, Fr. Christian Magtalas, recounted how the Immaculate Conception Parish was at the brink of closure when the Rector of the Basilica del Volto Santo, Father Carmine Cucinelli, donated the veil to the faithful of their small town. Fr. Magtalas, echoing the words of Padre Pio, said that the veil is “the greatest miracle in our possession.”
A few minutes from the church is Anao, Tarlac, the ylang-ylang capital of the Philippines. To provide livelihood for the people of the municipality, the local government has spearheaded the production of Aroma Anao, a perfume made with ylang-ylang oil. These days, the town also produces air fresheners, candles, bath soaps, and even shampoo based on the fragrant flower, sold through the town’s display center and sometimes in fair trades around Luzon.
After these stops, there’s food. Just past the TPLEx Binalonan Exit in Pangasinan stands Ruperto’s, an unassuming inland resort.
Binalonan is known for their longganisa. Their rendition of the Filipino breakfast staple is meatier—because the fat is removed—and has a prominent garlic taste. Still, practically all vendors from the town’s wet market would have their own take on the delicacy. “If you go to our town market, almost every stall sells longganisa. It’s definitely one of our most well-loved dishes,” Ruperto’s Chef Aldwin Soriano shared.
Nueva Ecija, Tarlac, as well as Pangasinan are among the provinces that rebelled against the Spanish government during the Spanish colonial period in the Philippines. This cultural heritage momentum has built over time and, combined with food destinations in the provinces, pose plenty of possibility for its tourism sectors.
In 2017 the Department of Tourism (DOT) projected a tourism boom among the Cordilleras, Ilocos and Pangasinan, Cagayan Valley, and Central Luzon regions that is fueled by the department’s ongoing marketing campaign for NorthPhil as a one-stop tourism destination.
The final stop of the trip was Baguio. With the opening of the Pozzorubio Exit of TPLEx, travel time to the city has been cut significantly.
“Aside from sharing new eats, we also wanted to support Baguio and encourage people to come for a visit and help in its recovery,” said Arcenas-Tan. The recent Typhoon Ompong left parts of Baguio damaged. Landslides devastated areas and caused extensive damage in certain portions of the city. Despite this, the city is quickly working to get back on its feet.
“We think one of the best ways we can contribute to the cause is by encouraging people to support the many local entrepreneurs in the area,” she added.
Along Benguet road lies Farmer’s Daughter, a restaurant serving authentic Ibaloi dishes. The rustic foodie destination was opened in 2015 by butcher Pil Od. He was inspired both by his grandmother—who introduced him to local flavors—and his grandfather, who taught him all he knows about butchering.
Then, there’s Mama’s Table, a private restaurant/abode, inconspicuously hidden on Ambuklao Road, owned by banker-turned-restaurateur Chef Vicky Clemente. The name of the restaurant stems from the time when Chef Vicky did her thesis at the New York Culinary Institute and had to make a tasting menu, which she called Mama’s Table because it was inspired by recipes from her family.
Meanwhile, BZA Home Arts Café, owned by Donna Marie Navarrete, is a quaint art-and-crafts shop on Quezon Hill that is starting to make a name for itself through its art activities. There’s also Lemon and Olives, owned by Dr. and Mrs. Mendoza, the first Greek restaurant in Baguio.
Along Marcos Highway, closer to the city, is H.O.Y (House of Yogurt) Lover, a homey bed-and-breakfast by couple Eunice and Danny Wong. It’s the first and only home-blended yogurt bar in the city. The owners also run the restaurant Calajo, which features a few Cordillera dishes in its menu.
SMPFCC concluded the trip with an imparting thought: that Filipinos may know Northern Luzon for its rich history—but with it should be the region’s food culture.
Looking back, I figured from that short journey why I never considered myself as a Manileña: because vacations for me as a child were when I go away from home. But now, vacations are the time when I come back.