I boarded the train bound for Kazan from Moscow. Since the journey would take more than 10 hours, I thought of things to do to pass the time, but decided to just let things take place.
I ended up striking conversations with locals who could speak some English. A middle-aged man said he came from Tatarstan and a young woman mentioned she just traveled to Africa and was meeting her friends upon our arrival. Before I knew it, it was morning already and only a couple of hours left before the train reached the city.
A man offered to book a cab for me upon arrival, knowing that foreigners get the tourist treatment of paying more than they should. He said he was from Kazan, he knew the place. After leaving the station, he did what he said he would. We shook hands and bid farewell.
Time traveling in the Kazan Kremlin
A recurring theme of my trip around Russia is the hours’ long walks I would do wherever I want, something I wouldn’t normally do back home. However, there’s something about a new city that makes me want to linger a bit longer, enter some alley or a random store, leave my eyes on a beautiful building, or chat up with a stranger.
I took the long and scenic route from my hostel to the Kazan Kremlin. I passed by apartment blocks, stores, cafés, stunning buildings and monuments. I caught a glimpse of the country’s Communist past with the presence of the hammer and sickle emblem in some parts and statues of revolutionaries, the most prominent of which is Vladimir Lenin.
I passed by nameless faces, commuters heading back home, or going to work. I eventually ended up outside the walls of the Kazan Kremlin.
The historical Kremlin is at the confluence of the city’s past and present, and two civilizations, the Khanate and Ivan the Terrible. Upon entering the walls of the ancient fortress, the first thing that caught my attention was the Kul Sharif Mosque.
Ivan the Terrible’s army destroyed the mosque during their siege of the city and its eventual take over in the 16th century. The Kul Sharif Mosque was reimagined and reconstructed inside the fortress centuries after its destruction. Its blue and white color, minarets and dome are an important part of the city’s beautiful landscape.
Just a few meters from the mosque is the Annunciation Cathedral which also dates back to the 16th century. Its colorful domes and white façade made of pale sandstone stand out. The presence of both a mosque and a Russian Orthodox Church exemplify the rich cultural and historical heritage of the city.
I made my way to one corner of the fortress and saw sweeping vistas of the city. From overhead, I saw its old and new parts with the river coursing between them. Then it was just about sunset, the sky was transforming from a clear blue into a hazy mix of orange and red.
A walk through history in Bauman Street
KAZAN was an important trade route that connected east and west, one of the reasons the Khanate wanted to secure it and why Ivan the Terrible wanted to take it.
Bauman Street has been a trading center of the city for centuries. It got its current name from the Russian revolutionary, Nikolay Bauman. This bustling pedestrian street has multiple shops, offices, cafes, restaurants and the prominent Epiphany Church bell tower.
Locals and tourists walked in and out; I could only imagine what this street looked like centuries ago. Maybe it was similar in its use and busyness, merchants calling out or waiting for customers, and people coming and going, or stopping for a meal.
I made my way to the other end of the street. I weaved in and out of narrow alleys, up and down stairs and saw different vantage points of this little corner of the city. I ran into old churches undergoing repair and some where locals frequented to offer prayers and light candles. I eventually found myself just outside the Kremlin. I turned around and followed the same route back. I found a café and decided to have a hot drink, letting my thoughts wander to a different time.
Kazan is at the convergence of two histories that shaped its present. Its monuments are a reminder of the successes and failures of the khanate and the tsardom. I would return to this city, to walk through its alleys, the Kremlin, enter its cafeterias, talk with locals to hear their stories, and experience its old and new world.
Image credits: Joshua Berida