By Thomas Adamson | The Associated Press
PARIS—At the recent Paris Fashion Week, Hermès dreamt of the stars but failed to light a spark, while Elie Saab let its hair down and channeled the 1970s in their respective the fall and winter ready-to-wear shows.
An infectious, retro soundtrack had fashion editors smiling as they tapped their feet at Elie Saab’s fun collection that channeled this season’s top trend: The 1970s.
Bright lighting banished any gray mood caused by the French capital’s overcast weather and angry demonstrations.
It illuminated a typically feminine array of color-rich gowns.
Charlie’s Angels-style jabot collars and high necks led the eye down to tight-fitting dresses with floppy ruffles across the bust or down the side. Later, sparkly disco gowns dazzled.
Thigh-high leather boots—another big Paris trend—were delivered in eye-popping colors, such as vivid blue, carmine red and cadmium green. They matched the hues of the gowns in a “total look” effect.
The collection, the house said, was filled with “a little bit of romance and a whole lot of love.” That mantra translated as an overly busy heart print on skirts and gowns that diverged from the retro musing and fared less well.
At Hermès, tiny light bulbs twinkled away from chic wood-paneled walls, creating the effect of a room filled with sparkling stars.
French designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski’s display for Hermès was one framed in poetical language: “The late afternoon light has given away to a constellation in the sky…the air is electric,” read the program notes.
A black sheath with a fine geometric cross opened the show, glimmering with delicate studs.
It was a nice design that introduced a star detail leitmotif that pervaded the 55 looks.
But as the collection progressed—via some slightly ill-fitting black leather jackets, bold distracting stripes at coat hems and high-neck silk chemises with an awkwardly shaped print at the bust—it became clear this season Hermès’s electricity had failed to light up.
As ever with a brand synonymous with luxury, there were some sumptuous pieces: only Hermès can make thigh-high suede boots look this classy, for instance.
But items such as a coat in white coffee with geometric stripes—not quite nipped enough at the waist, and too baggy at the shoulder—revealed a slight issue in proportion.