For many Filipinos, the mere mention of Angono (pronounced “a-ngo-no” or “ang-go-no”) can conjure images of the arts. Music, painting, sculpture—this normally quiet municipality in Rizal province is renowned for them, and for producing some of the Philippines’s finest and most influential practitioners in these fields, including the National Artist and famous painter Carlos “Botong” Francisco, and the master composer and conductor, Prof. Lucio San Pedro. Their legacy lives on in many of the town’s young inhabitants, who, through their substantial efforts, continue to strengthen Angono’s reputation as the Philippines’ art capital.
How Did Angono Become the Philippines’ Art Capital?
Given its reputation, it’s somewhat surprising that Angono does not have a distinct identity for much of its long history. Originally a visita of Pasig, Angono fell under the control of different towns in the region (Taguig, Morong and Binangonan), and even of nearby Laguna province, during the Spanish and early American colonial eras. It was only in 1939 that it became a full-fledged and independent municipality.
While the Philippines’ Art Capital did not have a particularly historic origin, the arts have been deeply ingrained in the region, even before famous painters proved their talent on a national scale. More than 2,000 years ago, the ancient ancestors of the Filipinos exhibited a knack for the arts, which was evident through the Angono-Binangonan Petroglyphs. These were ancient stick figure art carved into the mountain-top rock formations and tucked in the jagged cliffs of the now Eastridge Golf Course.
Coincidentally, the one who discovered these Petroglyphs was none other than Botong Francisco, one of the town’s pioneer artists and future National Artist for the visual arts – who also served as one of the key figures in cementing Angono’s title as the Philippines’ art capital. Today, these Petroglyphs are cared for and preserved by the Philippines’ National Museum.
As for Botong Francisco, he became a revered muralist who became famous for his interpretations of the country’s most historic events on canvas, which are now part of some of the most prestigious government and private collections. His name is a byword in the Philippine art scene and is the inspiration of almost all painters in Angono and the neighboring towns in Rizal.
Up to this day, Botong Francisco is celebrated by the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP), with the most recent one held during his birth month. An exhibit called “Homebound: A Survey of Recent Developments in Angono Contemporary Art” was held in 2017, with various artists exhibiting their works to promote the artistic history of Angono as the Philippines’ Art Capital. In a way, these young artists share Botong Francisco’s courage to rebel and challenge the existing art norms; the passion for research and diligent reading to achieve the right detail of a work in progress; and, of course, their love for Angono and keeping its history, culture and tradition alive and festive.
Today, this once obscure town takes pride in its hundreds, or perhaps thousands of artists—painters, musicians, sculptors, designers, literary and performing artists, artisans, and others who are indirectly connected with the art industry. It also boasts of having the greatest number of art galleries and museums in such a small land area and touring it and beholding their beauty will take you an entire day.
Museums and Galleries to Visit in Angono
If you’re planning a trip to the Philippines’ Art Capital, you should be ready to spend a whole day visiting the numerous museums and exhibitions that celebrate Angono’s love for the arts. In a way, Angono is similar to entering an art gallery, with artworks of varying shapes, sizes, and quality. Don’t be startled if you find one at almost every turn, with almost every barangay boasting at least one gallery. If you have a deep appreciation for the visual arts, Angono will keep your eyes occupied for hours on end.
Arguably the most famous art gallery in Angono is the Blanco Family Museum. The ridiculously talented members of this family, led by Jose “Pitok” V. Blanco, are recognized for their depictions of the town’s charming rural lifestyle and colorful fiestas. A good number of the artworks feature the rural genre with actual faces of the townsfolk and his family as characters, including Pitok himself, who is easily recognizable in his trademark white sleeveless undershirt. Once you step inside their large, deliberately arranged two-story gallery, you’ll be guided from one collection of impressive artworks to the next, starting with those by Blanco’s youngest child and ending with those of the patriarch.
Another well-known destination in the Philippines’ art capital in Angono is the Nemiranda Art House and Gallery. Unlike the Blancos, the gallery owner, acclaimed painter Nemi Miranda Jr., or Nemiranda, uses Angono’s legends and mythical creatures as subjects for his works. And unlike the Blanco Family Museum, this gallery also serves as a venue for art workshops and lectures. The homegrown master also owns the Artcamp and Tambayan, a riverbank studio, social center, and lodging quarters for visiting artists.
Now at 72, he recently staged a one-man birthday exhibit titled “Lockdown Series” where he is showcasing his latest works which he did during the enhanced community quarantine period and depicted the same in his canvas. According to Miranda, he considers the lockdown which can perhaps qualify as a golden era for artists where they churned out their best works, being sequestered at home for more than a month.
Over at Barangay Santo Niño, there is the Tiamson Art Gallery. Unlike Nemiranda and the Blanco family, artist and musician Orville D.R. Tiamson seems to possess a more wide-ranging artistic style, as one may glean from his works found in his eponymous gallery, which range from the conventional to the experimental. His art style cannot be pinned down to a single genre but is a combination of cubist, multi-media and avant garde styles, which veers away from the mold of the typical figurism espoused by the art community. Inspired by Andy Warhol, the versatile middle-aged artist also dabbles in music and alternative medium.
When Is the Best Time to Visit Angono?
While you can visit the art capital of the Philippines at any time to revel in the visual arts, there’s one specific date that might yield the most fulfilling local tourist experience: November 22 and 23. This is when the town celebrates its annual fiesta, which honors its patron saint, Pope Saint Clement, the fifth pontiff of the Roman Catholic Church. According to legend, Roman soldiers hung an anchor around his body and promptly threw him into a river, where he drowned. For this, he became the patron of fishermen. Since Angono lies in the northern part of Laguna de Bay, it’s not hard to see why its inhabitants chose him as their protector.
On the first day of the fiesta, dozens of towering papier-mâché effigies, called higantes, or giants, parade through the town streets, delighting onlookers. Originally there were only three effigies—father, mother and son—but since the 1980s the number of higantes has increased, thanks, in part, to the efforts of the Department of Tourism and the cooperation of the major businesses operating in Angono.
On the second day, the image of Pope Saint Clement is paraded through the town, carried by male devotees and accompanied by parehadoras (devotees dressed in colorful costumes with wooden shoes and carrying paddles). The festivities continue as the image is carried onto an especially constructed, flower-decked pagoda, which sails along a part of the bay until it reaches dry land. Once on firm ground, the image is then brought back to the church amid joyous revelry. Throughout the procession, participants and spectators alike constantly splash water at one another. So, a word of advice: have an umbrella or an extra set of clothes ready.
Angono Is Also a Local Food Destination
Aside from being the Philippines’ art capital, Angono also plays host to unique and exotic dishes. It is also famous for a handful of specialty restaurants and eateries. The most popular of these, Balaw-Balaw Specialty Restaurant – which was founded by the artist Perdigon Vocalan – offers an impressive selection of reasonably priced native and exotic dishes.
A must-sample is the minaluto, a family-size combo meal consisting of a variety of appetizers and viands. The native-themed resto also pioneered the production of the iconic giant papier maches where the municipal Higantes Festival was named after.
As an added attraction and maybe as a way to exhibit Angono’s title as the Philippines’ art capital, the restaurant has an adjoining art gallery—Ang Nuno Artists Foundation Gallery—where you can spend some time looking at the artworks on display, some of which are for sale, while waiting for your meals to arrive.
Not to be outdone, Nemiranda also has a similar establishment, the Nemiranda Art Café and Restaurant. Its delicacies and refreshments are diverse and priced quite affordably. A giant sculpture of the mythical characters Amihan and Habagat will greet you at the entrance.
If you’re adventurous or have more pedestrian tastes, you must pay a visit to the so-called Fried Itik Lane, which is located beside the Angono Gymnasium on M. Diaz Street. Take your pick of the stalls there serving itik, or duck, which they fry to a crispy brown and dipped with a special spicy-sweet sauce. Its taste is something you won’t exactly forget.
Bask in the Visual Arts and Enjoy Creativity That’s Purely Filipino
There’s no denying that Angono is a haven for local visitors and artists looking for inspiration. With its decades-long vision and commitment to the arts, Angono has earned its place as the Philippines’ Art Capital. While it has already produced some of the most sought-after names in the art world, this town has not yet stopped – fostering younger generations to uphold the culture of art appreciation. Plan your trips to Angono today, and get ready to enjoy days filled with striking color and memorable artworks from some of the Philippines’ most decorated artists.