Story & photos by Charo Logarta
The pandemic has changed one of the world’s most visited countries. And these days, visiting Thailand cannot be done on a whim. There are requirements.
First, check the latest guidelines as these are changed regularly. All visitors must apply for a Thailand Pass (https://tp.consular.go.th/en/plan) and select their entry scheme. I chose the Test & Go which required a confirmed one-day quarantine hotel stay, an RT-PCR test, and airport transfer, as well as USD20,000 minimum insurance coverage. It takes anywhere from 24 hours to seven days to get the approved Thailand Pass.
Upon arrival, I was immediately taken to a nearby hospital for a drive-thru RT-PCR test before checking into my hotel. I was released only after getting a negative result. It is only then can any visitor roam Thailand.
Without the crowds, there is something tranquil about Thailand. Locals, long-time foreign residents, and the few tourists feel the difference.
I decided to head for Hua Hin, a seaside town about three hours south of Bangkok with old-town charm and a laid-back vibe. The quaint town still has buildings from decades past—including one of the oldest (and still functioning) railway stations in Thailand. Waiting for the train here feels like time travel with benches, signages, and the platform dating back to the 1920s.
Hua Hin boasts an 8-kilometer stretch of white-sand beach perfect for swimming. The town is a pescatarian’s dream come true since Hua Hin is still a working fishing port. Many of the restaurants have their signature seafood dishes. Among these, a must-try is Koti, established in 1932. Their specialties include steamed fish in lemongrass and chili and the spicy seafood salad.
Still, need a Thai food fix? The Hua Hin Night Market boasts of stalls that sell delicacies like crispy chicken and pork skin, grilled seafood, sticky mango rice, noodles, and barbecue. I made repeated returns to the market for Rotee—pancakes made with bananas and condensed milk, paired with Thai Milk Tea. The Hua Hin Night Market is also a shopper’s delight with local craftsmen selling handmade items such as candles, jewelry, scarves, and tapestries.
Another must-see place in Hua Hin includes Wat Khao Takiap, set atop a 270-meter-high mountain where a large number of macaque monkeys roam freely. The bottom of the temple is a cliff where a giant golden Buddha statue stands guard over the sea. It’s a steep climb up the temple with monkeys flanking your steps, but well worth the effort with arresting views of Hua Hin. I was able to join the monks to feed the monkeys, but I was not prepared for a frenetic feeding frenzy of hundreds of apes!
Upon returning to Bangkok, I was surprised that the temples—once teeming with tourists, become places where quiet reflection was possible.
Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, is one of the most unique religious structures in the world with its prangs made of porcelain tiles. It is stunning come sunset from every angle. Across the Chao Phraya River, Wat Pho is home to the 46-meter reclining Buddha. But while most only look at the huge statue, turning around is also a treat as the hall is filled with ancient inscriptions that have actually been registered by UNESCO as “Memory of the World.” Fewer tourists have allowed experts to go full swing with restoration work at Wat Pho. Wat Pho is my favorite—I can get lost strolling rows and rows of Buddha images, gazing at colorful stupas, or simply sitting amid the fountains and foliage.
I opted to visit temples I have never been to before. Wat Traimit for one is modest in design, but it houses the world’s largest Buddha image made of pure gold. It was noon when I entered the sanctum. Silence and the light shimmering off the image lent a semblance of solemnity. At a functioning Buddhist temple, a monk blessed me—sprinkling holy water, then tying white threads to my wrist for good health and fortune.
Wat Mahathat Yuwaratrangsarit, on the other hand, is one of the oldest shrines in Bangkok and home to the first Buddhist University and a meditation center. Amid the sound of gentle wind chimes and birds chirping, I got lost in my own thoughts and reflection.
Further out, Wat Saket, or the Golden Mount sits on top of an 80-meter manmade hill. The temple and the golden stupa—said to contain relics of the Buddha, entails a 320-stair climb. But I was rewarded with a lesson in Buddhist history and traditions as well as great vistas of Bangkok from the top.
Like the rest of the world, Thailand is still recovering from the pandemic. But it will continue to be a place to whet the wanderlust. I for one, cannot wait to start another adventure in the Land of Smiles.
Image credits: Charo Logarta