THE Chardonnay was a departure from the buttery, toasty, richly oaked style that says “California”. But that’s because of minimal oak treatment, explained Jeffrey Stambor, director of winemaking at Beaulieu Vineyard. The Beaulieu Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 had that barely-there toastiness under apple-citrus notes, and a lovely poached pear finish. Restraint—the word came to mind and would come up again during the evening.
It was the Beaulieu Vineyard wine dinner at the Sofitel’s La Veranda one balmy night in November last year. Apart from the Chardonnay, there were three reds up for pairing with the menu: Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 and Beaulieu Vineyard Reserve Tapestry Red Blend 2013 with the main dishes, and the Beaulieu Vineyard California Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 with the cheese course. Almost as an afterthought, Jeffrey Stambor would address the gathering of wine enthusiasts and collectors as each wine was poured. But seasoned veteran of wine gatherings as he was, he let the wines do most of the talking. Still, there was the precious one-on-one time with the guests, who plied him with questions during the lull between courses.
Red is the main color at Beaulieu Vineyard, established 1899 by Frenchman Georges de Latour. (Hence the name “Beaulieu” from beau, French for “beautiful”, and lieu, meaning place—the description of the estate, attributed to Georges’s wife when she first saw the vineyards.)
Cabernet Sauvignon is king here. Its legendary winemaker, Russian-born but French-trained oenologist André Tchelitscheff, created equally legendary Cabernets in the 1950s and 1960s, known as the Georges de Latour Private Reserve.
Jeffrey Stambor (who had the opportunity to work with Tchelitscheff) carries on that tradition as he continues to craft the Georges de Latour Private Reserve (for almost 20 years now) and oversee the production of red Bordeaux varietals.
There was ripe black fruit, mocha-espresso notes in Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014. Cigar box, plum, cassis, graphite in the Reserve Tapestry 2013, a dense, muscular, aromatic, silky blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Dried leaf, black berries, licorice and sweet spice in the California Cabernet 2015 that was paired with a crusted brie adorned by cherry compote. The surprise of the evening was a magnum of the limited-release Rarity 2013, dispensed in tasting portions so we all could taste a bit of greatness.
I think restraint is a hallmark of greatness. And the Beaulieu Vineyard California Chardonnay 2015 absolutely sang with the pan-seared scallops and the caramelized celeriac purée and lemon gel.
Vinofile
Beaulieu Vineyard wines are imported and distributed by Premier Wine and Spirits Inc. at 900 N. Romualdez, Gate 2, Tabacalera Compound, Paco, Manila.
For information, e-mail info@premierws.com.ph.
