Story & photos by Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero
I started traveling very early—even before the advent of travel blogging—yet it took me eleven years to finally take myself to Taiwan.
The tiny country is so close to the Philippines that it even makes flying to Thailand or Singapore seem so much longer. However, going there is not the easiest, as one has to go through the hassle of obtaining a tourist visa, and flight options are also very limited. So, when the Taiwanese government relaxed their immigration policy toward tourists, my family and I just had to take advantage of the pass.
Taipei, a city across time
Taipei is hard to describe, but is quite easy to love. I was subconsciously always comparing it with Hong Kong and Shanghai, two equally modern metros that I have been to several times before that share the same textures as Taipei, but the culture of Taiwan’s capital is very different and refreshing. Strolling around old Taipei is easy, and provides a sneak peek into the soul of the nation. Anyone can just take any of the recommended walking routes, often available upon request in most hotels, to see various aspects of the historic precinct. Given that I only had two days to explore Taipei proper, I combined various itineraries to get to the Longshan Temple, a Chinese folk religious temple first built in the early-1700s by Fujian immigrants and is now a designated second-grade heritage building. In doing so, I passed through other important and interesting sites, such as the Taiwan 228 Peace Memorial and the National Museum inside a well-manicured public park and the Red House right beside the Ximending shopping district, among others.
One site that really stood out was the Bopilliao historic block, for those who were adventurous enough to wander to this side of Taipei. Bopilliao, a quaint quarter dating back to the Qing dynasty period, has continuously been undergoing careful conservation measures to prevent further damages to the fragile structures left standing and leaning. The Taipei metro also allows tourists to go to these places conveniently through their well-connected and efficient system, but I always prefer walking whenever it is possible and still doable.
The following day was devoted to the more modern side. Starting at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, a favourite spot for fellow selfie lovers given its almost postcard-perfect 360-degree views, I walked toward the commanding Taipei Main Station. There, I hopped on the rapid transit to Xianshan station to get the best view one can have of the Taipei 101. While climbing the world’s 10th-tallest building would, indeed, have been an experience, the views from the top would most likely be any view one would get from any other tall buildings around the world. Also, it was a bit expensive. A better, more practical option then was to climb Xianshan or Elephant mountain. It is the highest landform in the city, and it sits close to Taipei 101, so anyone who successfully reaches its peak is to be rewarded with a magnificent unobstructed view of the city’s modern skyline with the Taipei 101 towering over everything else.
The hike itself can be difficult given the steep flights of stairs, but what made it harder then was that it began pouring cats and dogs when I was just only at the first station. Nevertheless, that did not deter me from going further up, so I still managed to climb the already slippery Six Rocks and paid homage to architect C.Y. Lee by imitating a photo of him sitting on one of the boulders with his masterpiece, the Taipei 101, behind him.
Taroko Gorge, between two continents
A 2.5-hour bus-train combo brought us to Hualien, a trading city in the eastern side of the island that also serves as a base in visiting the nearby geological wonder, the fabled Taroko Gorge.
Toroko Gorge was formed at the collision point of the Eurasian and the Philippine plates, creating a dramatic landform with towering parallel cliffs, deep river canyons and amazing rock formations. Exploring Taroko National Park, where the gorge is its main highlight, was convenient thanks to the hop-on hop-off shuttle service that stops at key scenic areas found throughout the gorge. The reasonably priced whole-day pass allowed us to visit every stop at our own pace and style.
The two most impressive attractions we visited are the Swallows Grotto and the Eternal Spring Shrine. The Swallows Grotto prides in having the narrowest passage along the gorge where a rock that takes a form of an American Indian’s head can be spotted, while the Eternal Spring Shrine is a picturesque memorial to the 212 veterans who died during the construction of the Central Cross-Island highway in the late-1950s. The temple shrine was built over a waterfall, making it one of the most recognizable sights in Taroko.
Mining and fishing villages: Jiufen and Yehliu
Jiufen is a former gold-mining town that reached its production peak in late-1890s. The Japanese-period structures that remain in the town have become a good backdrop for the thriving tourism destination that Jiufen has become today. It is situated high up in the northeastern mountains where the temperature drops 10 degrees lower than the capital’s. The views from town are breathtaking, and they stretch far out to the waters of the Pacific from miles away. The Old Street, which is almost mandatory for tourists to walk through, is full of various souvenir stores and tea shops. One is greeted here with a warm cup of free ginger tea every 10 or so meters, which comes in handy to keep oneself warm amid the chilly, rainy weather.
The Yehliu Geopark, on the other hand, is a moon-like landscape. The small cape of a northern fishing village two hours away from Taipei is full of intriguing sandstone formations naturally carved by the wind and waves. The place is crowded with tourists during the day, and there is a ridiculously long queue of people, most of which are Chinese, to have a photo with the iconic Queen’s Head. The adjacent seascape is also fascinating and invigorating, and some waterfowls can be spotted, including terns and migratory egrets. Yehliu is a place where human imagination can be exercised in admiring odd rock formations, while enjoying one of the best sceneries that nature can provide.
Taiwan for Filipinos, Filipinos for Taiwan
Currently, the Philippines ranks as the 10th-highest provider of tourists inbound to Taiwan. The temporary relaxation of immigration policy for Philippine tourists has widened and broadened Filipino appreciation of this small but dynamic country. Taiwan offers a good blend of nature and culture. Morever, it is also a good collage of the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, as well as various colors and various flavours. I hope that the visa-free status for Filipinos entering Taiwan will continue.
Formosa, I will be back for more. For sure.
Image credits: Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero