Story by Joshua Berida
WHEN we think of Japanese cities, the first two that come to mind are either Osaka or Tokyo. Their bustling streets, Tokyo’s Shibuya crossing comes to mind, the glitzy shopping centers (Dotonbori, Shinjuku and Harajuku) and the food are top of mind. However, when someone mentions Nagoya, what do they think of? Quite frankly, when I booked my tickets, I wasn’t sure what I will discover. But, in the spirit of adventure, I kept an open mind and let things happen.
An old soul
There was something familiar about Nagoya; it has an oldness about it that is similar to the other commercialized Japanese cities I’ve been to. A walk through its narrow streets will take you to ancient temples, a castle and shopping areas that might date back to a century or so ago.
The construction of Nagoya Castle (¥500 entrance fee) began at the beginning of the Edo period. The ruling Tokugawa family made it one of their three branches. As a prominent city, the castle was one of the largest in Japan, and the town surrounding it subsequently became the fourth-biggest city. Air raids in 1945 led to massive destruction of many of the castle’s buildings, but reconstruction has returned some of the castle’s former glory.
It’s impossible not to see any ancient, old or new Buddhist temples walking around Japan. In Nagoya Osu Kannon is one of the most prominent in the city. The temple was originally from Gifu Prefecture, built in the Kamakura Period (1192-1333). Tokugawa Ieyasu decided to move the sacred structure to its current place in Nagoya in 1612.
Worshippers visit Osu Kannon to pay their respects to the goddess of mercy, Kannon. Beneath the temple’s main hall is the significant Shinpukuji Library. The latter has more than 15,000 Chinese and Japanese classical texts. One of which is the most ancient copy of the Kojiki, this chronicles the mythological origins and early history of the country.
The city kept its old soul, despite the massive commercialization and developments around it. Walking in and out of old streets and shopping districts, weaves one with the city’s past and present.
City bustle
Nagoya is the biggest city in the Chubu region and is Japan’s fourth-most populated urban area. A city this big has everything you need; from shopping in its many underground plazas to glitzy commercial centers that offer local and foreign branded goods. There is even a shopping street just next to Osu Kannon Temple; here visitors can find good deals on anything from adidas sneakers to discounted clothes, jackets and other apparel, and souvenir items.
Nagoya may not have the famous Glico Man of Osaka nor the mayhem of Shibuya crossing in Tokyo, walking along its streets at night are quite a visual spectacle. We stumbled upon a shopping street that had a colorful ferris wheel attached to it. An elevator ride up Nagoya Tower (¥700 ticket) provides you with an overlooking view of the city during blue hour, or at night when it is lit up. You can see one of the major transport hubs in its unique circular shape turn from blue to green or other colors.
Toyota, one of the biggest car brands in the world, traces its roots to Nagoya. The company has its headquarters and several domestic production factories around the city. A trip to the Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology (¥500 entrance fee) will show visitors the company’s humble roots as a textile manufacturer to its days as a premier automobile manufacturer. The guides demonstrated how some of the machines worked and displayed finished products. One can tinker with some of the machineries to see how it transforms spools of thread into a colored cloth or how an engine works.
Gateway to the countryside
Nagoya’s central location allows visitors to explore the country’s central highlands and verdant countryside. Old postal towns, such as Magome and Tsumago, are a few hours away by train. These small, quaint towns were an integral part of the Kiso Valley trail that connected Kyoto and Tokyo in the Edo Period.
These postal towns will give you a glimpse of how government officials and locals traveled to and from Kyoto and Tokyo. A step into either Magome or Tsumago will transport you to a time several centuries ago. The well-preserved wooden houses create a picturesque view. These towns have plenty of ryokans (guesthouses) and maintained honjins (a principal inn that served government officials) to preserve their lost-in-time ambiance.
After time traveling to older towns along the Kiso Valley, head to Gifu to explore Shirakawagou, this little village has quaint, wooden houses built in the gassho-zukuri traditional style, meaning hands in prayer design. This United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization-listed site is tucked in the mountains and has a view point that shows them spread in the verdant farmlands below.
Nagoya’s position at the heart of Japan is more than just geographical. It is an important part in the country’s industrialization and commercialization. The old and new connect with its weaving streets and the glitzy lights of its shopping districts at least approximate that of bigger cities, like Tokyo and Osaka. Its central location allows it to be a portal to travel back in time to the old postal towns of Magome and Tsumago, and a gateway to discover Japan’s beautiful countryside.
The city and surrounding prefectures has more to discover, I only managed to scratch the surface during my trip. Keeping an open mind to surprises is the best way to uncover what a place has to offer.
Image credits: Joshua Berida