I arrived in Veliky Novgorod City in the early morning, the sun hasn’t risen yet, and I still couldn’t speak Russian other than the usual yes, no and thank you.
I went to the nearest station, made the necessary hand gestures and pointed at the English translation on my phone. I boarded the bus bound for the city center, not knowing where my stop would be.
I was wandering in and out of alleys because people I asked said “go this way,” or “that way.” The sun was slowly rising, the cold autumn air kept me cool, calm and collected despite getting lost in a foreign city where people barely or didn’t speak English at all.
The translator wasn’t helpful either. However, I got to see the city in its half-lit glory, centuries-old churches in their ruinous or roughly restored state in the middle of several neighborhood. The sunlight slowly revealed them to me like a eureka moment, but then I reminded myself, I was still lost. These structures withstood the test of time, nature, decay and forgetfulness, to remind everyone that these structures are here; in a place they call the birthplace of Russia.
I eventually found my hostel after an hour or so of taking the scenic route while being lost, by accident at that. I was hungry and chanced upon a sign pointing toward a cafe in an alley. As soon as I turned and entered it, I saw the name of my accommodation. Relief swept over me, I checked in and got ready to explore.
An ancient city
It was in the ninth century when Prince Rurik established the republic and gave a once nameless land its name—Rus. Veliky Novgorod’s place in Russian history isn’t apparent, there was something unassuming about this small city. Quiet neighborhoods took the place of the urban jungle. The easy and relaxed pace of the locals and its idyllic charm didn’t seem like signs of a metropolis with such a long and storied past that played an important role in the country’s formation. Unlike Moscow, where the monuments were remarkable, the names of heroes recognizable and the hustle and bustle of a typical capital are everyday occurrences.
As I walked inside the Kremlin, I saw the familiar, colorful, onion-shaped domes that were of the Saint Sophia Cathedral, an 11th century church. Novgorod isn’t just the country’s birthplace, it was also the city where the Russian Orthodox Church gained and spread its influence. The cathedral may not have the flair of Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, but is of great importance during Russia’s early years. Just outside of Saint Sophia Cathedral is the Millennium of Russia. Emperor Alexander II had the bronze monument built to commemorate 1,000 years of statehood at the time.
Across the river from the Kremlin is Yaroslav’s Court. I stumbled upon this complex when I got lost on my way to my accommodation, but went back after checking in. Exploring the court is like walking into a wormhole. It no longer had the same vibrancy of a bygone epoch where shop-rows lined the marketplace. I could only imagine the frenetic movement of people and shop owners bargaining with customers.
While ancient churches remained standing in different states of ruin, repair or reconstruction, the centuries-old structures bore the imprints of the passage of time and decay, but thorough restoration returned them to their former glory.
Saint Nicholas Cathedral, built in 1113 to 1136, proudly displays the architectural prowess and design influence of the 12th century. Built in 1207, the Church of Saint Paraskeva is another church that withstood the years. Novgorodians believed that Saint Paraskeva is trade’s patron saint.
I didn’t stay long enough to truly immerse myself in Veliky Novgorod’s rich history, but my sojourn to the birthplace of Russia made me want to discover more of the country. I bid farewell to this unassuming city early in the morning, on my way to Saint Petersburg.
Image credits: Joshua Berida