Story & photos by Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero
Mumbai’s Victorian and Art Deco ensemble might finally get inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site this month, and this development has taken me to a series of flashbacks on my monthlong trip to India three years ago.
Despite months of preparation and reading about what can be seen and done, there were still a lot to be surprised about in this incredible country. In fact, it remains to this day as one of my favourite destinations, not only because of its built-heritage but also of its rich history, flavourful cuisines and immense diversity. While most visitors content themselves in seeing the Golden Triangle region alone, the other corners of India are as pleasant to explore—if not even better. In this article, I trace again the first leg of that trip: in and around the states of Tamil Nadu and Goa.
Tamil Nadu, an unchanged world
It is important to know that the Tamil civilization is the last classical civilization in the world that still thrives to this day. Arriving in Chennai, I was immediately welcomed by two friends who drove for me in going further down south to see Tamil Nadu’s two most invaluable gems: the nearby Mahabalipuram and the Brihadeesvara Temple in Thanjavur.
Traveling by car¸ covering nearly 1,000 miles back and forth, afforded us to stop at other interesting spots like Pondicherry, the former French territory that is now a favorite amongst those wanting meditative retreats. Also, having a Christian, a Muslim and a Hindu on the trip made a good recipe for fruitful, deeper discussions on culture.
Mahabalipuram was a major seaport until the Cholas took control of the region. Its monuments along the Coromandel coast are the best examples of Pallava art and architecture from the seventh to the eighth century. It boasts the Shore temple, the oldest example of a Dravidian-style temple and the only one left of the historic seven seaside temples that once stood. The 2004 tsunami badly hit Mahabalipuram, eventually uncovering a lot of underwater ruins and artifacts that could be from those structures that got submerged hundreds of years ago.
Aside from the Shore temple, from which Southeast Asia’s Angkor and Prambanan forms were derived, Mahabalipuram is also known for its almost legendary Pancha Rathas. These are five chariot-shrines, accompanied by several statues of animals, that were meticulously hewn from one massive granite rock. A few meters away is Arjuna’s Penance, the largest open-air bas relief in the world, as well as Krishna’s Butterball, a large boulder that continues to defy the laws of physics by not rolling down the incline it precariously sits.
Heading toward Thanjavur, we also stopped in Chidambaram. This town is said to be of mythical origins and is the location of the 10th century-built Nataraja temple, one of the five elemental lingas in the Shaivism pilgrimage route. Visiting this Chola temple proved to be a good introduction to our next destination—the most important of the Great Living Chola Temples.
The Brihadeesvara temple is a monumental complex constructed on the orders of Rajaraja Chola the Great in the 11th century. The Big Temple, as it is also called, can easily give Angkor Wat a good run for its money. It represents the greatest achievement of the Cholas in the arts and culture, and what is truly remarkable is that traditions and rituals performed in this temple have neither changed nor ceased in over 1,000 years, hence the reason it is regarded as “living.” The central tower, called a vimana, rises 64 meters in height, and nearly no surface is left without carvings or Brahmi inscriptions. The galleries surrounding the complex also contain traces of ancient frescoes. Because of the Brihadeesvara temple and the atmosphere it has created, Thanjavur gained the nickname “Athens of India.”
Back in Chennai, I also made a visit to the San Thome Basilica, the site where Saint Thomas was believed to be buried. It is one of the only three churches in the world that was built on top of the grave of an apostle of Christ.
Goa, India’s Portuguese Enclave
From 1510 to 1961 the state of Goa was ruled by Portugal. While it is most famous for its beaches, its Old Goa is home to several colonial period churches and convents, earning it the moniker “Rome of India.” Old Goa sees a fair share of tourists during the day, but it becomes almost deserted by sundown.
The most significant site here is the Basilica of Bom Jesus, a baroque church that enshrines the final resting place of Saint Francis Xavier after his remains were moved from the ruins of Saint Paul’s in Malacca. The nearby Saint Francis of Assisi church, however, is a personal favorite. It keeps some of the best frescoes and panel paintings in all of Goa. The church sits in between the charming Saint Catherine chapel and the Se cathedral, one of the largest churches in Asia. Close to the river is the church of Saint Cajetan, which was patterned after the Vatican’s Saint Peter’s church.
Half a mile away, up a hill, is another cluster of religious buildings that includes the House of Mater Dei, Saint Anthony chapel, and the well-preserved ruins of the Saint Augustine church. The fortress-like church of the Our Lady of the Rosary, the oldest church in Goa, lies at the highest part of the promontory where Alfonso de Albuquerque sat and watched over while his troops conquered Goa.
Lasting identities and legacies
While Southern India represents a strong statement about the country’s Hindu soul, these two states are also seasoned with numerous Christian heritage sites that were instrumental in spreading the new faith throughout South and Southeast Asia. Indeed, this region offers a completely different experience from that of the north.
Image credits: Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero