I’VE heard good things about Esfahan from travelers I’ve met before in Iran.
As I was sitting on the bus that would take up to six hours to the city from Yazd, those stories swam in my head with no expectations; they were all just words to me. This was how I wanted to explore the country, I wanted Esfahan to surprise me.
Old and new
A Persian proverb cited Esfahān nesf-e- jahān ast, meaning Esfahan is half of the world. The size, importance, and the presence of significant mosques, mansions, artworks and bridges made the previous statement true during ancient times. I was thinking of this when I arrived at the bus station. Taxi drivers went up to me and asked where I was going in broken English, I took the picture of the address in Farsi (Persian language) out and showed it to the one with the least intrusive manner. He nodded and led me to his car; we passed by high-rise buildings, fast-food restaurants, and retail outlets with the usual rubber shoes, jeans and shirts on display.
I checkedin at the hotel and went on my way to the famous, Unesco Heritage-listed Naqsh-e Jahan Square. I passed through usual sites of towering buildings, local fast-food chains and stores, but this time there were vestiges of the city’s glorious past, in between and in various states of ruin, restoration and maintenance.
Built between 1598 and 1629, the square was an interesting mix of old and new; young Iranians came and went to take selfies and pictures with the images of the mosques, palace and surrounding shops. Families brought rugs with them for a picnic, couples sat on the chairs far from the crowd and eager shop owners eyed potential customers.
The bazaar inside the buildings at the square sells all sorts of handicrafts and distinctly Iranian products. Persian rugs and carpets lined the walls of the shops as well as pots and lamps, clocks in various shapes (octagons, hexagons and star-shaped) and sizes, handcrafted bags, jewelry and export quality nougats with pistachios just to name a few.
Naqsh-e Jahan Square wasn’t the only relic of the past; the Shah or Imam Mosque serves as a reminder of the Persian Empire that rose to prominence centuries ago. The mosque displays Iranian artistry Iranians; the seven colored mosaic tiles and the inscriptions on the ceilings and walls are fine works of art. I couldn’t help but look up and get caught up in awe of the beautiful gateways with their elaborate designs and intricate tile work.
As I left the Shah Mosque and the square, I can’t help but feel like I was in between two epochs; an Iran trying to regain its identity and attain modernization, and an ancient one with remnants of its former glory.
The heart of an artist
Mosques in Iran aren’t just places of worship; they are museums that tell their own story. The Unesco Heritage-listed Jameh Mosque is exactly that, a voyage through the evolution of Islamic art and architecture. The courtyard, iwans (vaulted open rooms), minarets and tile works draw influences from various epochs that span 12 centuries, from the Seljuq to the Safavid to the Abbasid. I walked in and out of the towering structures seeing something different each time.
The mosques aren’t the only displays of Persian history, ingenuity and creativity. Chehel Sotoun’s interior, a former entertainment pavilion and palace of Shah Abbas II, had beautiful frescos and paintings that date back more than a century. These works of art depicted historical events such as an Uzbek King’s reception and the Battle of Chaldiran.”
As day turned into night, the city lit up with neon lights of stores and restaurants enticing passersby to shop or dine out. I was looking for the old Khaju Bridge, one of the oldest bridges in the city. I asked around which way it was and found out that it could take 40 minutes to get there from where I was, if I walked. Luckily, a man I talked to decided to give me a ride to my destination.
The bridge glowed yellow under the night sky and faint, but audible Iranian music played in the background, while people gathered to hear poets recite poems about love. They welcomed strangers, even foreigners to listen. I didn’t understand a word, but the company was a good consolation.
The Safavid King, Shah Abbas II had Khaju Bridge built in 1650, not just for utility, but as a place for public meetings. Fast-forward today, it still serves a similar purpose. I could only imagine the views the King had when he looked at the city from the bridge. It could’ve been quite the same, a modernizing metropolis of its time.
Esfahan is a fascinating city; it has a vibrant, old meets new atmosphere with its ancient, restored mosques such as the Jameh and Shah, lively Naqsh-e Jahan Square, bustling bazaars and artistic vibe. It has a storied history that tries to embrace modernization. What better way to plot the future than to look at the past?
Image credits: Joshua Berida