Story & photos by Joshua Berida
When we visit Japan, the places we visit or revisit are Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. These three destinations have their charm; they are rooted in the country’s history and culture.
The confluence of the past and present is prevalent in these locations; the towering skyscrapers, glitzy shopping centers, old houses and historical structures, from castles to old villages. However, there is more to see once we leave the confines of the metropolis and the usual tourist attractions. Heading to the highlands is a new adventure to look forward to.
Journey to the highlands
From Manila, the gateway to central and the highlands of Japan is Nagoya. When I booked my flights, I wasn’t sure of what I would discover when the travel dates arrived. I only had a rough itinerary of what I would do and planned to add or remove places as the trip progressed. One of the places I went to was Matsumoto.
The bus ride from Takayama to Matsumoto took me from one quaint city in the mountains to another one. The rolling hills descended into verdant, lush fields as far as the eyes could see. Small, traditional houses replaced the usual towering buildings of bigger metropolises, like Nagoya or Tokyo. As soon as the bus stopped, I made my way to the main square where the train station was and several other signs of commerce, McDonald’s and scattered family-owned shops.
The mountains and the clear, blue skies served as a picturesque backdrop. The people didn’t walk like they were in a hurry to get somewhere, there was a certain ease in their steps. I was in the province, but not in the way I knew it back home.
Old soul
Like in most of the places I’ve been to in Japan, Matsumoto has remained connected to its rich history. A walk along the merchant district of Nakamachi made me think about the old shops that used to line the area. Nowadays, I got to see vendors selling local food, cafés offering an eclectic mix of Japanese and Western coffee, desserts or meals, and kitschy or handcrafted souvenirs that visitors can take home.
One of the most beautiful castles in the country is in this city, Matsumoto Castle or Matsumotojo. This iconic structure is a popular destination for both locals and tourists alike. It’s a hirajiro, or a castle, on a plain rather than on a mountain or a hill. Its distinctly black wainscoting provides it with an air of dignity and grandeur, befitting royalty. Surrounded by a lake and garden, it creates an atmosphere of serenity and Zen. At night, the castle lights up the sky, its white light shining as bright as the moon.
Matsumoto has its charms, but I was drawn to Narai after a conversation I had with an American roommate in the dorm. I didn’t know much about the place, but it was in the same direction I was going to upon returning to Nagoya. The photos of the old, traditional houses piqued my interest, as well.
I thought that the city I left was already small and idyllic, but on the way to Narai, the number of towering buildings and houses decreased. The train station had a middle-of-nowhere feel to it, a feeling that I never felt anywhere else I’ve been to in Japan. I approached the ticket counter, she asked where I was from, I told her “Philippines”, she had this surprised look in her eyes. She took out a notebook and jotted something down. I found the gesture pleasantly surprising because of the high-tech nature of most of the counters I’ve seen in the country, wherein I dealt with more machines than people.
The surrounding mountains and fog with a hint of rain gave me a jolt of nostalgia, this was the side of Japan that I don’t see on TV or hear about often. It reminded me more of a place back home, somewhere far from the city. Maybe it was low season, but I barely saw other tourists walking down its old streets.
Narai is an old post town that was an important route in the Kiso Valley, and was the midway point between Edo and Kyoto. It was one of the wealthiest post towns in the valley, the long stretch of houses used to be honjins and wakihonjins (inns that accommodated weary travelers of all kinds, from politicians to regular citizens). Now, it remains as a remnant of a distant past, a time warp for those who want to discover a part of a glorious epoch.
Exploring Kamikochi
A trip to the past may stir nostalgia, but the proximity of Matsumoto to the mountains makes it the perfect jump-off point to nearby Kamikochi, which is a part of a national park.
For the adventurous and outdoorsy, Kamikochi presents a good day trip from the city. I was unsure about going to the park because of the inclement weather; however, the skies cleared for a day or two, which gave me the chance to explore this destination. The park is surrounded by mountains; I saw a snow-capped peak in the distance, even in June. The weather was chilly, but once I started hiking the easy trails along the river and into the forest, I started to get warm. I didn’t have time to climb any of the nearby peaks, but Kamikochi is still beautiful, with its mirror-like ponds, reflecting the clear, blue skies, and its lush marshes.
Adventure awaits
I had an idea of places I wanted to visit when I traveled around Central Japan, but I kept an open mind to changes in the itinerary. I was unsure about going to Matsumoto, Kamikochi, or Narai, but I wanted to get lost, and discover new places. Maybe I’ll find something or answer a lingering question, or maybe I won’t, but the journey itself made the trip worthwhile.
Image credits: Joshua Berida