THERE has been lingering historical gossip that the Allied Forces, led by Gen. Douglas MacArthur, returned to the Philippines via Leyte during World War II not just for its strategic significance, but because of its innate charm. It was a place where he could laze around after kicking out the Japanese.
You need not be a military genius nor a travel guru to realize that this lovely province is a gem of eastern Philippines. Aside from MacArthur’s iconic larger-than-life tableau, which memorializes his monumental landing, Leyte and twin province Samar have a plethora of hideaways which have been largely overshadowed by the top-of-mind destinations.
The good news is you don’t have to do a taxing and hit-or-miss do-it-yourself itinerary of the exotic spots. The Oriental Hotel, which is situated at the other fence of MacArthur’s landing site, can cook up a seamless tour to some of the most exciting natural gems in this side of the archipelago.
Devastated by Supertyphoon Yolanda in 2013, the area has bounced back and has sparked vigor in the local tourism landscape. The star-rated resort hotel, which was totally destroyed, has come back to life to bring back the touch of style and luxury in what the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain would call as “parts unknown.”
Serendipity begins when you land in Tacloban, the aerial gateway and regional hub of Eastern Visayas, regarded as the ninth-busiest domestic airport. From here, a guest shuttle van will take you to the Oriental Hotel for the welcome amenities and the staff’s cheoreographed dance to make you instantly feel at home before you embark on your adventure.
A must-visit is Sohoton Natural Bridge national park in Basey town, Samar’s poster image and among the first ecotourism showcases in the 1990s. The 840-hectare reserve boasts of fascinating limestone boulders, rockholes, weathered formation rocks and subterranean rivers.
Traditionally, it can be reached by land across the San Juanico Bridge toward Visitors Center at the river village of Wespal, the welcome lounge and launching area operated by a community organization for the 15-minute banca ride to the destination. Alternatively, you can have a customized chartered cruise to Wespal via tour outfitter Aqua Momentum.
Sohoton’s main cave is a cathedral-like dome, with a 50-meter high arch entrance. Its extensive system is composed endogen caves with angular limestone cliffs, which abounds with flowstones, dripstones and other jaw-dropping geological features.
Further down is the 23-meter high Natural Bridge and arch-shaped rock which connects two ridges spanning a river, which can be reached by a leisurely 30-minute kayak paddling.
In the heart of Basey is the hilltop century-old Saint Michael Archangel Church, which has a commanding view of the poblacion, Gulf Leyte and Tacloban in the horizon. The town takes pride in its age-old pandan mat, Samar’s trademark handicrafts, hand-woven by women’s skillful hands which makes for an exquisite pasalubong.
A best-kept secret is the neighboring town of Marabut, which is known for its rock islets of amusing shapes, lush coral gardens, limestone cliffs, and patches of greenery and white beaches.
Tucked behind towering rocks is Tinago Enchanted Lagoon, a rich wetland ecosystem teeming with mangroves which are habitats to various species of fishes and fowls. It can be reached through a low-ceilinged, tunnel-like opening aboard a paddle boat or kayak.
Marabut is, by and large, a frontier with only less than a handful tourist establishments which can cater to visitors’ needs, but its natural assets are more than enough to compensate for this shortcoming.
If time permits, you can take a 60-minute sunset cruise at the San Juanico Strait for a different point of view of the famed bridge which has captured the fancy of motorists and Instagram addicts. The 2.2-kilometer span, the longest in the country, can be admired from below and from the islets concessioned by Aqua Momentum to be its temporary resort.
At night time, you can feast in the hotel’s succulent specialties which gives you the authentic Oriental taste across Asia’s well-loved cuisines—which embraces Filipino, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Malay and Korean all-time favorites. Spicing up the otherwise uneventual dinner time is a 30-minute fire dance show, perhaps the only one of its kind of entertainment among mainstream lodging facilities.
Before hitting the sack, pamper yourself with a rejuvenating spa treatment after a daylong journey, to prepare you for yet another exciting odyssey.
The next day can be spent exploring Tacloban City and the suburban municipalities such of Dulag, Palo and Tolosa, which are dotted with heritage structures, mostly related to World War II.
But if you are craving for the so-called vitamin sea, there is an infinity of fine sand and gin-clear water, which can rival Boracay even during its heydays. Be forewarned, though, of the lengthy road transfer, which takes at least two hours one way, plus the boat ride. But if you are a true-blue beach bum, these getaways are undeniably worth the trip.
There’s the island province of Biliran, which is a virtual waterworld because of its beaches, series of waterfalls, sandbars and scuba diving sites. Moreover, there is also Tres Islas in Inopacan and Kalanggaman Island in Palompon which is sought-after for its 200-meter powdery sandbar acclaimed as one of the best in the country.
For a slower pace, you can just laze around Oriental Hotel’s manicured grounds, dip in the infinity pools with a view of the Pacific horizon, read a book at the cozy lobby adorned with overwhelming Asian motifs, or simply make the most of a relaxing staycation at its well-appointed rooms.
If MacArthur were alive today, he will surely keep making a repeat of his “I shall return” pledge, not just for nostalgia’s sake but also for the Oriental gems that are slowly making Eastern Visayas among the nation’s hottest tourist hot spots.
Image credits: Bernard L. Supetran