PEOPLE travel for a host of reasons—whether one does it to commune with nature, satisfy one’s spirit of adventure, explore culinary delights, or simply have a better understanding of our culture. South Cotabato, as this writer has experienced, is a treasure trove of wonders ready to delight even the most seasoned of travelers.
The Philippine Tour Operators Association (Philtoa), in partnership with the Department of Tourism and the local government of Regions 11 and Region 12, recently embarked on a Destination Update of (Soccsksargen)+ Davao, billed as “Tuna na, T’boli Pa Myx”.
Upon arriving at the southernmost city in the Philippines, our group was met by T’boli native Jellybee Baay, a Tourism Development area manager who served as our happy tour guide. Our first stop was the Durian Garden in Polomolok, South Cotabato, for a heavy breakfast of local cuisine. The 3-hectare durian farm on National Highway boasts of the best-tasting durian in the area, with seven varieties of durian trees organically grown. An assortment of large flowers in bloom, a butterfly garden and a minizoo make this place a pit stop not only for your tummy but for your eyes, as well.
A stopover at Lake Sebu
AFTER being recharged by a hearty meal and a relaxing stroll around the farm, we set out for Lake Sebu, the summer capital of Southeastern Mindanao. Making the trek to one of the seven falls, we cannot help but notice how rich the soil of the place is, as shown by the quality of its flora and fauna. It feels like we are in the middle of a rain forest. As we approached the waterfall, the temperature begins to drop, as the playful mists made us keep our distance. This particular waterfall (known as Hikong Alo) is the most accessible of the many waterfalls. The scent of fresh forest air invigorated our spirit. The magnificent sight and sound of a raging waterfall tells you that you are someplace special. On a side note, T’boli costumes could be rented out in the area, for that picture-perfect photo opportunity.
As lunchtime drew to a close, we headed straight for Punta Isla Lake Resort. We were greeted with warm smiles by two T’boli women in their native costumes as we boarded the boat. As we settled in our seats, we felt the cool wind on our faces as we began the lake cruise. We were served a variety of tilapia dishes to the delight of our taste buds. In fact, tilapia here could not be any fresher, as they are caught in the lake beneath us. The specialty of the resort, with its fresh sweet taste, could be prepared in at least 50 ways! A must-try dish is the deep-fried chicharon tilapia served with kropek and vinegar.
Entertainment followed suit. A T’boli man skillfully played several native musical instruments one after the other. He struck an emotional chord with our group as he played an almost haunting, melancholic piece that expresses longing for loved ones when one is far away from them. Soon after, a T’boli woman demonstrated for us different tribal dance—the most fun to watch, which elicited giggles from us, is a dance involving flirty eye contacts. Through it all, the sincere expression of their performing arts is well deserving of our admiration.
Next stop was the thrilling zipline ride over green hills and waterfalls. The claim to fame of the zipline over Lake Sebu is that it is the highest in Southeast Asia with an elevation of 600 feet. Where else could you be higher than waterfalls and rainbows?
The dreamweavers
A SOUTH Cotabato trip would not be complete without watching how the T’nalak, hailed as the province’s ultimate cultural emblem, are woven by T’boli women, known as “Dreamweavers”. For this we set out to visit Lang Dulay Weaving Center. A banner hanging inside the weaving center reads, “A traditional weaver or the abaca ikat cloth of the T’boli, Lang Dulay produces creations of high quality, displaying rich colors and fine workmanship. She knows a hundred designs, spun in textiles reflecting the wisdom and visions of her people. The Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan was conferred upon Lang Dulay in 1998.” Lang Dulay had made famous the municipality of Lake Sebu.
In the past, the T’nalak was used to barter for farm animals and used as dowry, as well. It comes without surprise that the T’nalak Festival, celebrated every July, has become the grandest and most- awaited celebration in the province of South Cotabato. As a matter of fact, last year was its golden year.
Weaving the T’nalak is far from easy. It is a labor of love. It is more than a source of the T’boli’s clothing. It is a source of their identity.
Sinolon T’boli homestay
AS night fell, we headed for the T’boli Knoon Monument. From a distance we heard musical instruments play an engaging upbeat tune. As we moved closer, we saw the happy faces of young and old alike singing and dancing to welcome us. No less than Hon. Dibu Tuan, Municipal Mayor received us to our amazement. He was very unassuming in his casual clothes, without bodyguards by his side. He was armed though—with his friendliness and big smile.
Afterwards, we proceeded to the cultural village, which was just a stone’s-throw away. We were greeted with more singing, dancing and friendly faces. We climbed a ladder leading to the second floor of a big bamboo house, the venue of our homestay. At one corner of the house, hanged framed photos tell the story of how the T’boli municipality came about. When it was time for dinner, food were lined up on the floor—grilled chicken, sticky rice served in a big leaf, chicken cooked inside a bamboo, coconut juice in its own shell, sweet potatoes. The food was not store-bought, but something they grew or raised in their backyard. We sat on the floor and ate with utensils made with bamboo and coconut. Needless to say, everyone had a feast.
The highlight of the evening was the storytelling led by a woman named Silin Awed, the village chieftain. She, being a former teacher, narrated the stories of her tribe in fluent Filipino. She had us at the palm of her hands as we listened intently like little children.
Rolling mats, pillows and blankets were provided as we comfortably settle along the elevated sides for the bamboo house. The sound cicadas make lulled us to sleep. At 4 a.m., we were awakened by the sound of drumming that soon faded and turned into a beautiful prayer (recited in the vernacular), which reminds one on how to relate with God and neighbor.
Breakfast was served in the form of sweet potatoes, cassava, boiled bananas and sweet coffee. A number of men and women were playing the musical instruments —kulintang, tambol, heglung and tnonggong. Meanwhile, two T’boli women, who were dancing to the beat, rushed toward this writer and his friend and hanged a malong over their necks, and encouraged them to dance. It was a fun way to tickle the happy hormones early in the day.
The homestay, without doubt, is the climax of our T’boli encounter. Their gentleness and sincerity as a people have paved the way for an easy emotion connection. This writer, having seen and experienced the beauty of South Cotabato with his own eyes, will be going back to Manila with the notion that there is more to Mindanao than meets the eye.
With regard to the cliché “Do not be a foreigner in your own country”, South Cotabato, with its abundance of attractions for the different kinds of travelers, is a good place to start.
The land of the dreamweavers is worthy of Filipino’s curiosity and time.