I was going over my Facebook page a few months back and as it does, a pic of me playing golf in Rancho Palos Verdes in Davao came up on my feed reminding me of a golf trip there with my buddies. The image immediately brought back the happy memories of those fun times; of Rancho Palos Verdes and Apo Golf and Country Club, the food, the order and the kindness of the Davaoeños made me long to make the trip down to reprise those memories and make a few new ones.
Golf travel is one of the singular pleasures of the game. Because no two golf courses are alike, travel adds to the variety and challenges one encounters and must subsequently surmount. It is a chance to experience another province, country and culture through our eyes – those of a golfer.
Davao offers the enthusiast the best golf in Mindanao. True, Del Monte Golf Club in nearby Bukidnon is a charming, tree-lined mountain top course but it is trumped by the sheer beauty of Rancho Palos Verdes. For variety, Apo Golf and Country Club offers the challenges of an older golf course of traditional construction and in some instances provides an even stiffer challenge than its hilltop neighbor.
There’s so much more to see in Davao too. Davao City is the most populated city in Mindanao and (per the 2010 census) the fourth most populated city in the Philippines today. Davao City is also one of the largest cities in the country. With a total land area of 2,444 square kilometers, the city is the largest in the country in terms of land area. So golf aside, this is a tourist’s paradise.
It is ridiculously easy to book a trip anywhere these days. All you need is your phone, a fast wifi connection and you’re in business. After determining suitable dates, surf over to Cebu Pacific’s website which offers all manner of discount fares with six flights a day from Manila to Davao. I booked two tickets with overweight allowance for our golf bags and confirmed our seats both ways on my phone and it cost just over ten thousand Pesos.
First the golf; although there are more than two golf courses available for play in Davao, there are two that stand head and shoulders above the rest. Apo Golf and Country Club and Rancho Palos Verdes Golf and Country Club.
Apo Golf and Country Club
Apo Golf and Country Club is the game’s champion. Built in 1962 on 49-hectares of land donated by the late Carlos V. Iñigo, Sr. to the club for a token down payment of fifty thousand Pesos with the balance payable in membership certificates. The first board of directors was former congressman Lorenzo Sarmiento, Guillerom Torres, Roberto Dakudao, Rene Oboza and Antonio Solier and it was them that set about building the golf course.
Engineering contractor H.R. Lopez, Antonio Hernandez and Ricardo Gulanes all had a hand in the design of the golf course. They were assisted by Mateo Sanchez, Sr. A golf professional, Sanchez oversaw the work done at the construction and was credited with the design of certain parts of the golf course.
In 1965 the first nine holes were put in play but it wasn’t until June of 1968 that the second nine was completed mostly due to the efforts of one Conrado Alcantara. C. A. (as he was called) spent most of his time and resources finishing the second half of the golf course.
Many of the game’s professionals learned their trade at Apo Golf and CC. Antonio Lascuña, Felix “Cassius” Casas, Elmer Salvador, Bong Lopez, Elmer Saban, the Bayron brood, Jhonnel Ababa and many, many more have honed their skills on Apo’s undulating fairways and sloping greens.
At just over 7000 yards in length, Apo will test your abilities with your longer clubs severely. Just two of its par fours are under 400-yards and on most of them you’ll need to lay up short of the many streams that bisect the fairways. Make sure you get some range time with your longer clubs. You’ll need all of them.
The course twists and turns as it meanders around the property. The doglegs present yet another test. Local knowledge dictates that you play away from the dogleg but far enough down the fairway to give yourself a clean shot at the green. This is to avoid the overhanging branches of the very tall trees that define the fairways. Don’t even think about trying to carry the trees in the dogleg. Put yourself in the wrong spot and you’ll be laying up short of the green.
The greens, though large, are reminiscent of old Donald Ross designs shaped like inverted saucers. You’ll need to have your short game in good shape if you expect to post a good score. The greens are difficult to read because the breaks are so subtle but they roll very well so if you start the ball on the correct line, it will invariably find the hole.
What is interesting is that the defining holes are the first four on either nine. One and ten are relatively high handicap holes but they send a clear warning on how you are to play the course – play away from the doglegs and leave your approach shot short of the green. The succeeding holes are all long and difficult. These are the toughest holes on the golf course. Special mention goes to the twelfth hole at a gargantuan 470-yards from the back tees, this long, sweeping, uphill hole plays even longer than it reads on the card. It might be the 2-handicap on the score card but this is unquestionably the toughest hole on the golf course.
A lot of local knowledge is required to score well at Apo and for that you’ll need a good caddy. Once you find one, do exactly as he says. Fortunately, there seems to be no shortage of experienced loopers. Apo Golf and Country Club is one of the few golf courses left that still has a caddy’s day on the golf course so this ensures that all and sundry are intimately familiar with each twist and turn of this fascinating track.
Apo Golf and Country Club is fairly close to the city center and is easily accessible by taxi. There are plenty of taxis to be found out by the club so getting back to your hotel should be a piece of cake. Apo is surprisingly affordable. Unaccompanied guests are charged a green fee of one thousand Pesos while guests accompanied by a member are charged just six hundred. That’s a heck of a bargain by any standard.
Rancho Palos Verdes Golf and Country Club
Rancho Palos Verdes Golf and Country Club provides the perfect yin to Apo Golf’s yang. It is a modern golf course with imported turf grasses adorning its fairways and greens. Built by the Sta. Lucia Realty Corporation on the top of a ridge in what used to be a pomelo plantation in Barangay Mandug/Indangan, Buhangin District some thirteen kilometers outside the city proper, the course is a must-play for any golfer worth his salt on a visit to this fair city.
The 18-hole course was designed by the renowned design firm of Andy Dye, whose creations have captured the attention of golfers across the country who are as appalled by their difficulty as they are swayed by their beauty. Completed in 2001, the course has a feel mature beyond its years. The old growth rainforest and verdant vegetation that border the fairways have much to do with this. This feel is echoed by the tee boxes, which are really quite small by modern standards and seem more suited to an older course of local design. A golf cart is recommended; distances from some of the greens to the next set of tees are quite long on the rolling terrain.
Rancho Palos Verdes has a great variety of golf holes that demand a variety of shots from the golfer. The greens, in true Dye fashion, have significant undulations which making hitting the correct quadrant of the green a must to post a good score. From the championship tees, great accuracy, skill and boldness will be required as well as strength of character, classic “high-risk-high-reward-golf” at its best. However, these tees are best left to the professional of scratch golfer or those looking for cruel and unusual punishment. A premium is put on length off the tee as the course plays far longer than its 7039 yards would indicate. Playing the appropriate tees is instrumental to enjoying one’s game.
Beyond the golf, be on the lookout for the native deer that call the plateau their home. They are quite used to people and you will be surprised how close you can get to them. Be careful when approaching the stags; they’re very territorial and will charge if they feel challenged. Do take a few minutes to visit the ostrich enclosure between holes 5 and 6. The big birds are friendly and will oblige you for a souvenir photo.
I’ve been coming here since 2005 and yet even today, I am still taken aback at the sheer beauty of the inward nine. Make no mistake, the front nine, particularly its closing holes are very, very pretty but my jaw was just on the floor when we hit the closing holes. Starting at number thirteen, every hole is just stunning. There is no other word for it. This is one of the most beautiful, testing stretches of golf anywhere in this country.
Where to stay
Since we weren’t planning a staycation, we chose modest accommodations in a nicely situated hotel in the middle of Metro Davao. The Bagobo House Hotel is located on Duterte Street smack dab in the middle of the city. It’s right around the corner from the Apo View Hotel and the Pagcor Casino. It is a very reasonably priced business hotel and proved to be an ideal base from which to golf and explore Davao City. The staff was extremely helpful and arranged all the running around we did throughout our stay. No frills but the hotel has the basics covered. The rooms are clean, the water is strong and its temperature is easily regulated and it is ideally situated for the business traveler or tourist.
Wine and Dine
There are literally dozens of restaurants within a five minute walk of the hotel. Not to be missed are Tsuru Restaurant and Sushi Bar, Claude’s Le Café de Ville and Tio Coccoc’s Restobar. Tsuru is a wonderful little Japanese restaurant. An abundant supply of yellowfin tuna make this restaurant a must-try for the Japanese food junkie. Claude’s may have started out as a French restaurant but the menu has diversified into other continental and yes, even Filipino cuisines. No matter; the food here is well done and the ambience alone is worth the visit. Tio Coccoc’s specializes in Thai regional and Filipino cuisine. The chef, Mr. Pong, is a Thai national that settled in Davao City. The founders of the restaurant are the heirs of Dr. Coccoc Panganiban after whom the restaurant is named. Tio Coccoc’s Restobar is located in a trendy apartel that mimics the vibe of the Malate district in Manila. The diversity of these three restaurants speaks to how far the city has progressed since the last time I visited.
Other interesting restaurants have sprung up in Davao’s Obrero District. Upon the recommendations of a friend, we dined at Marbled. A modern steakhouse, it boasts USDA Prime and certified Grade 5A Wagyu beef. Such fine beef needs the finest wines and spirits as accompaniments and in this area Marbled does not disappoint. We had a very nice Cabernet Sauvignon to accompany our steaks and a quick scan of the wine list revealed some very exclusive bottles and the requisitely stratospheric prices. There’s truly something for everyone here. The modern appointments and relaxed ambience make a comfortable venue to feast and recall the pitfalls and victories of the day’s round.
Relax, have a massage
After two straight days of golf our bodies were feeling a bit fatigued so we sought out a good massage. In Davao there is no place better for this than Lazuli at the Marco Polo Hotel. Located on the expansive pool deck of the hotel, Lazuli is a two story structure that offers four treatment rooms and a couples’ room to boot. The rooms are opulent and provide an oasis of calm where you can rest your weary body. The therapists are excellent; extremely well trained and solicitous. This is a spa that compares favorably with any other in the country. It is a must after 36-holes of golf in two days.
Other places to see
On our last day in Davao, we decided to explore the popular tourist spots that Davaoeños enjoy. Our first stop was Eden Nature Park and Resort. About an hour’s drive out of the city, Eden Nature Park and Resort is a very popular spot with the locals. We were there on a Saturday and the place was packed. There are a number of activities that one can indulge in but the most attractive was the 4-kilometer long hiking trail. Carved out of the mountain, it’s a fairly strenuous test as the trail meanders over boulders, around towering trees and up steep embankments. It’s an excellent way to get in touch with nature and to marvel the majesty of the area.
About 45-minute drive from Eden Nature Park and Resort is the Philippine Eagle Center. The Center is home to 36 Philippine Eagles, 18 of which are captive-bred. It also houses 10 other species of birds, 4 species of mammals and 2 species of reptiles. Simulating a tropical rain forest environment, the Center offers the visitor a glimpse into the country’s forest ecosystem. Although the exhibits are used primarily to help educate the Filipino people on conservation, the facility is a major tourist attraction in Davao City. Guided tours are free of charge but you will want to call ahead to make arrangements. It is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s national bird and the forest which it calls home.
Along the Diversion Road in Davao City, there is a Japanese tunnel that dates back to the Second World War The tunnel was carved out of the hilly section of Matina Balusong, west of the city by Davao Prisoners of War in 1942. The tunnel was used by the Japanese as a base of operations, and as a means of transporting their equipment and mobilizing their forces against the American liberating army. It was accidentally discovered by the owners of the land while constructing a hotel. They were excavating the area when they uncovered damp passageways and rooms underneath the land, and soon discovered that those were tunnels used by the Japanese soldiers during the war. Although the original tunnel was over 7 kilometers long, less than 1.5 kilometers remain as the rest have collapsed and are no longer passable.
You can’t go on a trip and not get pasalubong for your loved ones back home. What better to bring home than native delicacies of the place you’re visiting? Apo ni Lola Durian Delicacies was started by a grandson of lady that started the durian pastillas craze back in the 1950s. Apo ni Lola has diversified beyond just durian, making sweet and savory products from Mindanao’s iconic fruits – durian, magosteen and langka. They’ve even managed to make coffee with durian. One thing for sure; you won’t leave here empty-handed.
Our final stop of the day was the Davao Crocodile Park. This is the city’s answer to a “zoo”. Unlike Puerto Princesa’s Crocodile Farm, this recreational park is home to a variety of animals; different species of birds, some primates and even several Tigers. The park is owned by Philip Dizon. It took Dizon 10 years to develop the animal farm into what it is now after it received its city accreditation in 1995. It officially opened in August 2005. Located along the Diversion Road in Ma-a, in a compound called Riverfront Corporate City, the farm functions more like a leisure park than a zoo. The surrounding area has restaurants and shops, as well as a butterfly farm. The park has daily shows that introduce its fauna to their visitors. Don’t miss the daily feedings; it’s a chance to see the park’s inhabitants in action.
Because of the sheer vastness of the city, it is impossible to see everything in a week or even two. In the short time we were there, we’ve become totally enamored with Davao. The city is remarkably clean and is probably the safest city in the country in spite of what other countries’ travel advisories say. It is one city that we will definitely visit again and soon.