EVERY traveler, even the most jaded ones, undeniably has the Marco Polo or Ferdinand Magellan DNA running in his or her genes. The thought of exploring an off-the-beaten path hideaway, away from the madding crowd of popular tourist traps, is such a thrilling scenario to pass up.
Despite its seeming obscurity, the island province of Catanduanes is an exciting travel frontier in the archipelago’s Pacific seaboard off mainland Bicol region. Monikered “The Happy Island,” it promises pleasant surprises along the away and happy memories you can bring home.
There is hardly any high-end tourist facility, but this lack is compensated by the abundance of its back-to-nature offerings. With an infinite coastline, it offers an overload of sleepy shores more than what a beach bum can take, each with an irresistible magnetic pull and the silhouette of the perfect-coned Mayon Volcano in the horizon.
The journey begins in Virac, the provincial capital town and hub of commerce, transport, shopping and tourist establishments, which can be reached by Cebu Pacific from Manila or Philippine Airlines from Clark. An obligatory first step is a visit to the provincial tourism office at the restored the Old Capitol building for helpful travel tips and documentation of tourist arrivals. A visit to Museo de Catanduanes, located upstairs, immediately follows to give you a glimpse of its rich local heritage.
A hands-down choice for lodging is Twin Rock Beach Resort, which takes pride in its recreational facilities such as swimming pools, zipline, zip bike, watersports equipment and a customized Volkswagen vintage camper van you can use to drive around. Located in a vast scenic cove, it is so-called because of the massive rocks which jut out of the sea.
In the heart of town, there are Lucky Hotel and Resort and the ARDCI Corporate Inn, which are among the boutique accommodations that have a touch of urban class.
Feast on a wide array of Bicol cuisine, crop-based dishes such as tabogtabog, kaluko and koping, and topped off with latik, ibos, or barisongsong for dessert. Frequented dining outlets for guests and locals are the ancestral housed-themed Blossoms Restaurant, whose menu spans from short orders to popular international dishes; and Sea Breeze Restaurant, which is known for its succulent seafood.
For after-dinner cravings or small talk with friends, there are also a couple of low-key but cozy homegrown coffee shops and watering holes around town.
While in Virac, you can shop for native food items and decorative souvenirs made out of abaca—one of the world’s best fibers, which grow abundantly in the province.
Half an hour away is the quaint town of Bato, which is dissected by a meandering river of inviting blue-green water. It is home to the Diocesan Shrine of the Holy Cross, where the first cross in Catanduanes was planted over the grave of missionary priest Diego de Herrera. Also known as Batalay Shrine, a natural spring has emerged, which Catholic faithful regard to be miraculous.
Saint John the Baptist Church, sitting near the bank of the Bato River, is another Spanish-era religious spot that sports a unique Baroque architecture that seems to transport you back in time.
Also in Bato is Maribina Falls, a three-layer cascade tucked within a lush vegetation and forms ice-cold natural swimming basins; and the stunning islets of Patag, Carorian Japanese Kaidan, Seaside Waterfalls, Poseidon’s Rock and Pinta Beach, where you can hop around on board a chartered outrigger boat.
Puraran Beach in Baras, the province’s iconic destination and surfing playground, is a must-see. Nicknamed “Majestic” because of the adrenaline-pumping waves, this once-obscure spot has become a tourist colony, events and party place, and mecca for surfing tourneys. But if you simply want to watch the world go by, you can frolic at picture-pretty fine, cream sand and sip your favorite ice-cold beverage in the beachfront bars.
To the extreme eastern edge of town is Binurong Point, which has become a social-media sensation because of its resemblance to the windswept cape and crashing waves of Batanes.
Up north is Nahulugan Falls in Gigmoto town, which beautifully cascades on three tiers, creating spectacular sprays. Large nest ferns sit on the branches of these trees throwing in some shadows, giving the area a mystic touch.
Another social-media star is Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon, a tidal pool in Pandan town tucked in the midst of a rock formation endowed with crystal-clear, blue-green waters, deep enough for a low cliff dive or a flotation as time slowly ticks away. There are small fishes which offer some dead-skin cleansing like spa fishes. En route to the lagoon is Cagnipa Rolling Hills, a majestic green land where you will be welcomed with sweeping vistas of where skies meet the sea, as if they were nature’s artwork in a living canvas.
Also in Pandan is Carangyan beach, which means “paradise” in the vernacular, and is an appropriate calling for this golden sand cove. If you feel like spending the night here for a taste of back-to-basics island life, there is a resort with air-conditioned cottages for modest comfort.
Situated off the provincial mainland are the best-kept secret islands of Palumbanes and Calabagio, whose turquoise waters teem with beautiful corals and fishes, ideal for snorkeling and a potential site for scuba diving.
And if you feel Catanduanes is beckoning you, this week is the best time to visit as it celebrates its event-packed Catandungan Festival to mark its foundation day, which is highlighted by the Padadyaw sa Tinampo, a time-honored folk dance that reflects the province’s colorful culture.
With more attractions being discovered in the hidden nooks and introduced to tourists every year, your dream of being a Magellan in your own little way might just be the happy ending to your journey to the Happy Island.
Image credits: Bernard L. Supetran, Ryan Cua and Maki Aganon