I spent a few days in Zagreb before I took the overnight bus to Dubrovnik. I read that the latter was a touristy and crowded destination due to the popularity of Game of Thrones. However, I assured myself that, that won’t be the case because I scheduled my trip during the winter (and during the Covid pandemic at that). The overnight bus ride was uneventful with a few stops before arriving at the station early in the morning. I didn’t get much sleep, but I was eager to explore Dubrovnik.
Old world charm
As I step foot into the old city, I found it still asleep with the early rays of the sun falling on the cobblestone streets and buildings. Closed stores, shops, and kiosks greeted me as I made my way to the hostel. It was a surreal experience to be in such a well-preserved ancient city with little to no people. I checked in and waited for an hour or so until the old city was alive and awake. After resting and eating breakfast, I made my way out of the hostel and was ready to get lost in the city’s old-world charm.
Dubrovnik’s history dates to the 7th century. It has experienced and seen the rise and fall of empires over the centuries, natural disasters, wars, and bombings. Fast forward to today, it has become a popular tourist destination for tourists from all over the world. I was fortunate enough to visit during winter and with an ongoing pandemic which meant fewer crowds and lower prices. I casually saw familiar spots in the old city that reminded me of the few episodes of Game of Thrones I happened to catch and that’s about it for me.
Moving on, I weaved in and out of the narrow streets and spent a few minutes inside some of the churches. I went up and walked along the walls to get sweeping, overlooking views of the old city below. The reddish roofs of the houses and buildings, and the belfries of the churches filled my line of sight. I could imagine the city defending itself against invaders from the land and sea because of its fortified walls that we built centuries ago.
I soaked in the city’s atmosphere while eating a sandwich, sitting in a café or one of the seats of a nearby food kiosk, and by simply stopping to admire the view. It didn’t seem like people were still worried about the pandemic. They were just as eager as I am to return to a semblance of normal.
No place like home
Coming from a grocery store and on my way back to my hostel, I met a local. He noticed that we were walking in the same direction and decided to start a conversation. I forget his name, but he said something that stuck with me. He and his family had lived in Dubrovnik’s old city for years. He has seen people he knew sell their properties for huge sums of money because real estate within the old city’s walls is high value. However, he wouldn’t sell his house, he tells me. Dubrovnik is his home and he learned to appreciate his hometown more after his travels. He saw Dubrovnik with a new pair of eyes and probably loved it even more. For him, it’s not always about money.
The conversation drifted to other topics, vaccines, lost friends and loved ones due to Covid, religion, and his plans for the future. He told me he would propose to his girlfriend soon (as if I was a long-time friend that could keep a secret). As we walked in the old city, we parted ways.
I spent an extra day in Dubrovnik before I decided to leave for Split. I walked around the old city a few more times. A wave of nostalgia swept over me. I was thankful to travel again after more than two years, despite Covid infections in our family and my circle of friends. Stories of death and long-term effects (regardless of age) of the disease circulated in the news and in my social media network. It made me realize that we live on borrowed time. As the cliché goes, every moment matters. It can all end in an instant. I took these thoughts with me as I packed my bags and prepared for my next destination.
Image credits: Joshua Berida