FIRST, there is the bottle, long and tapered unlike the familiar wine bottle with shoulders. Then there is the low alcohol level with some examples hovering at 8 percent, giving the impression that the wine is wimpy and spineless. And then because the wines are virtually oak-free, they are deemed unfashionable, swimming against the tide of rich, buttery, toasty whites that have had time in new oak barrels. Though still bypassed in favor of the more familiar wines made from chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, Riesling is widely considered as the greatest of white-wine grapes. Here is why.
Prized for its ability to ripen and accumulate sugar without losing its naturally high acidity, Riesling comes in a wide range of styles—from bone-dry to lusciously sweet dessert wines; from light and delicate to rich and full-bodied (and sparkling Riesling, too). Its aromatic repertoire is just as varied, reflecting its origin or its age.
Lime, apricot and green apple flavors are found in young Riesling. With age, Riesling develops toasty, honeyed flavors, and, sometimes, petrol-like aromas. Riesling is also one of the most long-lived white wines, celebrated for its ability to mature in bottle for years and still taste incredibly fresh, thanks to its high levels of acidity.
Riesling rules in Germany, its home ground where many of the most impressive Rieslings are made in the widest of styles. It grows as well in France (notably in Alsace), Australia, Austria, northern Italy and New Zealand, with limited plantings in Canada and the United States. But wherever it is planted, Riesling maintains its perfumed aromas and naturally high acidity, while still reflecting the nuances of climate and soil.
The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region of Germany—famous for its vineyards with slate soils on steep slopes by the river—produces the lightest, most ethereal Rieslings, their sweetness balanced by soaring acidity. France’s Alsace region has the driest climate in the country, thanks to the Vosges mountains that acts as a rain shelter, allowing for warm, dry and sunny autumns, resulting in grapes with high levels of sugar ripeness. Here, Riesling is characteristically drier, less floral, higher in alcohol and more powerful than its German counterparts. In Austria, where Riesling is made in all levels of sweetness, most wines are either dry or very sweet with mind-blowing acidity.
Washington State in the US is noted for its dry Riesling. In Australia’s cooler Clare Valley and Eden Valley regions, examples are loaded with exuberant mango, guava and lime notes underlined by subtle sweetness. New Zealand and the Finger Lakes region of New York State, USA, also produce Riesling in the fruity, off-dry style.
Navigating through Rieslings in the wine shop or the restaurant wine list can be daunting, especially when confronted with those from Germany. Difficult as they are to read, German wine labels indicate the sweetness levels of the wines. Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese—describing sweetness in ascending order—are the most commonly encountered terms. But whether sweet or otherwise, Riesling is also an excellent food partner. The pairing possibilities are endless, given the wine’s wide range of styles.
Learning to appreciate Riesling in all its varied styles can be a bit of a struggle, but perhaps only in finding the right style that suits your taste—and your wallet. And remember, not all Rieslings are sweet.