THE first time I cruised aboard an interisland ferry boat was many years ago.
Our destination was Puerto Galera in Oriental Mindoro. Wide-eyed with wonder, I found myself swimming in crystal-clear waters and frolicking over white sandy beaches for the first time in my adolescent life. Sandwiched in our ocean fun spree was a hiking trip to Mount Malasimbo. A year after that, I returned with my mates from the UST Mountaineering Club for our induction climb to Mount Halcon.
Since then I’ve always associated Oriental Mindoro with the beaches of Puerto Galera, the dense forest of Halcon, the Malasimbo Music Festival and the quaint town of Calapan. And despite venturing as far out to its twin province Occidental Mindoro, to explore the Apo Reef, I never realized the region still has more to offer.
A recent visit to the province introduced me to Bulalacao, the southernmost town of Oriental Mindoro. The municipality’s name translates to “meteor” and has different versions of how it came to be. The first legend says it was derived from tales about a flock of mythical birds called bulalacao which appears whenever people are sick and mysteriously cures them. The second one was about how a meteor crashed and created the many islands in Bulalacao Bay.
Regardless of these origins, the locals seem to find humor with the town’s old moniker “Bula-layo,” where the suffix “layo” translates to “far.” It was a bit a distant indeed, as it takes three-hour land travel from the capital Calapan to reach the town, as it lies literally next to Occidental Mindoro.
With the wealth of discovery and adventure we had, it’s safe to say that the long journey by sea and land is very much worth the undertaking.
Island spotting around Bulalacao Bay
AS an incoming typhoon threatens the rest of Luzon, it was sunny when we started our island hopping. We were greeted by a generous sun shower as we boarded our boat. The ample sunshine gave the water a majestic sheen off the blue waters. As soon as our boat picked up speed, we started sighting the dotted islands from afar.
There are around 11 islands and islets scattered throughout Bulalacao Bay, and visiting each can last you a day or two. The first island we came to was Aslom Island, one of the bigger islands in the bay measuring 12 hectares with a crescent-shaped sandbar that stretches along the shoreline where visitors can chill and relax.
The next island was Target Island, named as such because it was the US Air Force’s bombing practice site during World War II. The bomb drops created rugged craters and carved out interesting patterns on the rock formations. Despite its violent past, the island is still very appealing with a scenic coastline leading to a lake located in the middle of the island.
Before lunch time, we reached Tambaron Island and spent more than an hour just chilling here. Surrounded by coral-rich waters teeming with marine biodiversity suitable for snorkeling and diving, it is an ideal place for visitors to stay for a night or two, thanks to a few cabanas that front the island.
Our last stop was Suguicay, the most popular island in Bulalacao Bay. To hasten our trip, we went back to the mainland and took a short road trip to Bangkal Port where we walked over a 300-meter wooden bridge protruding from a mangrove forest out into the open sea, and delighted over a spectacular scenery. From here, we took a half-hour boat ride to Suguicay, where adventure activities awaited us.
Extreme adventures at Suguicay Island
AFTER feasting on local cuisines, including the very interesting and fine-tasting pasyak shellfish stewed with ginger, coconut milk, vinegar and soy sauce, we jumped right into the activities courtesy of Bulalacao Island Adventures. Previously based in Boracay, the outdoor company now offers parasailing, fly fish and banana boat activities in the island.
After exhausting our arms during the wild but fun Fly Fish ride, and since the sky was gloomy, we spent the whole afternoon bumming around the island.
Just as I was about to give up waiting for the sky to clear up, an hour before sunset, there was the whiffling of gentle winds, but strong enough for tandem parasailing!
Pair after pair, we took off and flew over the island of Suguicay. I found the experience very Zen-like while I marveled at the sight of the fiery setting sun while the calm blue waters of Bulalacao Bay were sparkling up until there’s available light.
The side trip to a Mangyan settlement
THE next day, the Oriental Mindoro Tourism Office took us to the Hanuno Mangyan settlement in Panaytayan, Mansalay, Oriental Mindoro. Even though it isn’t part of the municipality of Bulalacao, this town is an ideal side trip for those wanting to learn more about Mangyan culture.
Aside from ancient burial grounds and an underrated weaving industry, the town of Mansalay prides itself for having a very intact local culture said to be “the well-preserved amongst the eight Mangyan tribes of Mindoro.”
To preserve their culture, community elders teach the Hanuno script and language to elementary students once a week.
Lola Bugkos Dagay showed us how to inscribe the Hanuno script (Surat mangyan), one of the indigenous suyat scripts of the Philippines, on a piece of bamboo. Afterwards, Lola Bugkos gave the bamboo to me after I asked for it.
The Hanuno script reads:
“Si aypod bay upadan No kangtinaginduman. May ulanhmadikagnan. May takipmadikaywan. Ga siyon di saadngan. Go pagtangdayondiman” [“You, my best friend, oh too far. My thoughts of you make me sad. River digs the dungeon gap. Forest breaks our world apart, as if you’re here on my sight. Sitting, so close, by my side.”]
Those words were overflowing with beauty, romance and reflective poetry, the most fitting token to remember these islands on this side of Mindoro.
Image credits: Marky Ramone Go