IT must have been quite a sight even in 16th century Bordeaux. Ships lowered their sails as they cruised past the grand château by the Gironde, a sign of deep respect for its owners, the Dukes of Eperon. That was how Château Beychevelle got its name—from “basse voile”, the French dialect of the times that meant “to lower the sails”. That maritime reference was also the inspiration for the sailing ship that adorns the château’s bottle labels.
One balmy night in May, Château Beychevelle did make a port of call in Manila and was met with great enthusiasm by a select group of collectors, restaurant owners and sommeliers. Not that the name needed any introduction. The Saint-Julien Fourth Growth (owned jointly by Suntory and Castel), noted for the elegance of its wines, is equally famous for its physical structure, often compared to the classical architecture and magnificent gardens at Versailles.
What was really introduced that time was the Grand Bâteau range, a collaboration between Castel and the Beychevelle winemaking team. Still, the acknowledged stars of the evening were the Amiral de Beychevelle 2013, the château’s second wine, and two vintages of the grand vin, the 2008 and the 2014.
Can you guess the grape variety? Shawn Lee, export manager of the négociant group Barrière Frères, posed the question to us gathered at that one long table for 20 at the Shangri-La The Fort’s Raging Bull Chophouse and Bar. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon go into Bordeaux blanc, but the Grand Bâteau Blanc 2014 is pure Sauvignon Blanc. Oaked definitely, because of the toasty, nutty notes. Warm vanilla, citrus, stonefruit, a slight chalkiness complete the profile of this fresh, vibrant blanc. Served from magnums, the wine did its work as a welcome drink, prepping palates for the big wines.
Like its white counterpart, the Grand Bâteau Rouge 2012 (65-percent Merlot, 35-percent Cabernet Sauvignon) had the vibrant freshness that makes for easy drinking. It went well with the rich chicken-liver pâté, as did the Grand Bâteau Blanc, but both would have been equally at home even with homier, everyday fare.
At Raging Bull, the Chopping Block is a carnivore’s delight. This was the main course that evening, a huge chopping block piled with cuts of meat with fancy names—tenderloin Cape Grim, grass-fed Tasmania striploin John Stone 49 days dry-aged, Rathmore Darling Downs wagyu MS5+ grass-fed Queensland. Served alongside this was another chopping block loaded with gorgeous sides and sauces. Only the Grand Vin would do justice to the spectacular spread.
But before that, there was the exquisite duck leg confit scented with rosemary that came with the Amiral de Beychevelle 2013. Cherry compote, fresh green herb, dark plum, tobacco leaf—the layers of aromas and flavors were precursors of greater things to come from its bigger sibling, the Grand Vin.
The Château Beychevelle 2008 and 2014 were a study in contrasts. There was more Cabernet Sauvignon than Merlot in the 2008. Merlot was dominant in the 2014. The 2008 had a dark, brooding profile: earth, graphite, cassis, tart black fruit. The 2014 was just as concentrated, but more exuberant with vanilla, mocha, cedar and ripe black fruit capped with a lingering espresso finish.
But there was one more surprise up Shawn Lee’s sleeve. Just when the chocolate dessert was almost gone, he brought out the Secret Blanc de Grand Bâteau 2012 redolent of pear, almond, subtle fino sherry notes, citrus. It’s 100-percent Sauvignon Blanc, the fruit derived from a classed growth. Which one? Ah, but that’s the secret. And with that, the evening’s voyage to Bordeaux came to a magnificent end.