By Cesar Cruz Jr.
IF the walls of Intramuros could talk, it would surely reveal that, aside from it being Manila of the past, it also houses a restaurant known for its Filipino-Spanish-inspired house specialties—Ilustrado.
While “Ilustrado” refers to educated Filipinos during the Spanish colonial period, the dining establishment has, in its own way, embarked on a quest to enlighten the taste buds of modern-day Filipinos with the flavors of a bygone era. Time-forgotten dishes, needless to say, have been resurrected to life.
A Sampler of the House Specialties
How does one make the national dish more special? Ilustrado ups the ante by creating Adobong Bagnet with Taba ng Talangka. The dish is playfully subtitled as “Please Be Careful With My Heart”. The quadruple cooked bagnet is a culinary surprise waiting to be discovered.
For those opting for a less sinful version, one cannot go wrong with the Bagnet with KBL sauce (kamatis, lasuna, bagoong). The porcine dish marinated in sukang Iloko is only fully cooked upon order to ensure crisp skin every time.
The Stuffed Chicken Ilustrado is a tribute to a provincial style of cooking, particularly in Malolos, Bulacan. The recipe, which involves the process of deboning and roasting, is stuffed with pork, chorizo, raisins, carrots, bell pepper. The dish, also known as Manok ni Manoling, is finished off by topping cheddar pan gravy.
Morcon Plaridel, regarded as popular holiday dish in the Philippines, is a meat roll stuffed with chorizo de Bilbao La Reina, carrots, pickles, cheddar and egg. Its is beautifully plated in an oval white plate with a sprinkling of parsley, slices of cherry tomato and a sprig of basil.
Paella. At Ilustrado, this Valencian rice dish can be savored in eight different ways. Notable here is the use of annatto (the orange-red seed from the achiote tree) to impart color, flavor and aroma.
Tres Leches, chiffon cake soaked in three kinds of milk, makes for a sweet ending for a luxurious meal. It served with mango slices, grapes and kiwi.
While the abovementioned dishes may be the stuff of lavish town fiestas and presidential inauguration of yesteryears, the menu has more to offer.
Continental Dishes
Like the educated class of Filipino its name represents, Ilustrado does not rest on its laurels. In keeping up with the times, a continental menu is offered alongside its house specialties. This modern reinvention of classic dishes—injected with a healthy dose of creativity, fun and personality—captures the taste and spirit of the younger generation.
Whet your appetite with Plato de Jamon Serrano (Croquetas. Allioli on Crostini. Antipasto Skewer). The skewered ham, olive and cheese are served standing on its tip. The medley of small dishes from Spain is a scene stealer, indeed.
The Sweet Pea Guacamole with Wonton and Shrimp is perfect for those looking for light and clean tasting fare. The dip, with its faint spice and heat, is not playing second fiddle to the grilled shrimps. It is served with mesclun greens and citrus vinaigrette.
The Bagnet Sliders (an about-to-be-launched dish) is a unique take on the Pulled Pork Sandwich. The mini buns are made grayish in color due to charcoal powder. Sliced bagnet takes the place of pulled pork. It is topped with coleslaw to complement the flavor of meat. The entrée is served with potato wedges.
The Salted Egg Pasta promotes Filipino- inspired concoctions with the yolk of the salted egg lending creaminess and texture to the noodles, topped with salted egg whites and cheese.
Cookies and milk may be a go-to bedtime snack for kids, but Ilustrado came up with a sophisticated twist for adults with its matcha cookies served with panna cotta.
Instead of a churros and chocolate pairing, the restaurant whipped up an ensaymada and chocolate combination, which makes for an easy breakfast or merienda.
While the Intramuros of old was built to keep invaders out, Ilustrado has done the opposite. With a menu lineup that cuts across different generations, it has embolden a group of invaders of sorts to brave the rain, drive their cars slowly over stone pathways, and knock on their doors—the food connoisseurs.
Ilustrado is at 744 General Luna Street, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines.
