ABOUT midway through my pregnancy, I was able to secure permission from my doctor to accompany my husband up to Baguio. Initially, he was planning to be in and out of Baguio within a day but I was advised against it, so we stayed overnight instead. Twenty-four hours in Baguio is not enough, I must say, but the trip was nevertheless a good break since it took us away from the city—and never mind that Baguio itself has become a highly urbanized city.
It was still a welcome break. The last time I was in these northern parts was about eight years ago to celebrate my lolo’s 80th birthday, so as soon as we entered the winding roads of Marcos Highway, I was wide-eyed and suffused with wonder and delight. It felt like it was my first time to be back.
Baguio now feels so much different from how I remember it. The city is now full of buildings and the view of the structures along the ridge makes you wonder why such property developments and construction methodologies were allowed by the local government. There were structures almost as far as the eye can see. That said, as soon as we rolled down the car windows, it hit me that I was in Baguio. The cool air filled our lungs and the soft drizzle created the fog that Baguio is known for.
My husband and I were invited to give a talk to the United Architects of the Philippines-Baguio that evening so, before heading over, we stopped by Café by the Ruins for lunch. The café is a quaint restaurant that was already doing business before World War II, and now famous for the ruins that provide soul and ambiance. Home to local and Asian fare, Café by the Ruins’s food is made with love and soul. I felt at home with the smell of the bread from the bakery and the huge portions of organic salad that we ordered. We also tried the bagnet, something I seldom eat, but this deserved a try and, needless to say, I enjoyed it. The plate was served with red rice that came from the mountains and I paired the meal with ginataang langka and pako vegetables. I was in heaven. My husband also ordered the onion bread with a special cream cheese dressing to pair with his coffee after the meal. We left satisfied because not only was our meal a welcoming sensation, but the café was also a place that was filled with character, local creativity and art, three things that I hold dearly.
Next on the itinerary was to check-in at The Manor Hotel which was booked by our good friend, Arch. Sheila Tan, who is a Baguio resident and whom I’d like to thank for inviting us over. The Manor has always been a choice of hotel for me. Located inside the grounds of Camp John Hay, an old military American base camp, The Manor Hotel is what I remember about Baguio. The drive up to the hotel led us to roads lined with towering pine trees and uphills. The hotel is warm and cozy and fashioned largely out of wood, and a fire in the fireplace was up and running. Our welcome drink was a warm cup of malunggay and calamansi tea which was truly refreshing after our sumptuous lunch. What caught my attention were the rooms, which were very comfortable and spacious.
Our room had no air-conditioning, which I was secretly happy about because I wanted to enjoy the weather of Baguio. There was a ceiling fan which helped the cool air circulate, and the room came with a cozy balcony. I was able to catch a quick nap and read a book on the balcony while watching the soft rain fall and the fog creep in. I almost didn’t want to leave my spot. This is another thing I truly enjoyed during the short stay—cool, fresh air and Baguio’s relaxing ambiance amid the woods and pine trees.
That evening, we prepared for our talk and to our surprise, the venue was also one of Baguio’s historical landmarks—the Casa Vallejo Hotel, which dates back all the way to 1909 and claims to be the oldest hotel in Baguio and might as well be a heritage site. The hotel’s main building materials are galvanized iron, wood and sawali, and it was used by the Americans to house construction workers who helped build what is now Baguio City. It was then converted by Salvador Vallejo, a Spanish soldier, to a dormitory and then a hotel after that in 1923 when Baguio was being transformed into a vacation spot.
I must admit that, at first, it felt a bit creepy given the weather and the dark of night, and I learned that the place also housed prisoners during World War I. That said, it has the traditional Baguio charm, with the white exterior walls and the green roof, typically of Baguio character and construction. Up and running for about 80 years now, the building has been renovated and fixed, but it still carries the same services and configuration as the dormitories once did. On March 25, 2014 the National Historical Commission of the Philippines approved for a historical marker to be installed at the front doors of Casa Vallejo.
This is the charm of Baguio—the cool air, the charming restored buildings, the pine trees, the woods and the fireplaces. This is the Baguio I remember. I’m glad that there are still places that consciously carry the ambiance of Baguio amid all the urbanization the city has been going through.
This trip was limited and I’m sure that there is a lot more to be a said about the city and its aspirations toward modernity. I can only hope that more architects, engineers and developers become consciously aware of the charm of Baguio, and make an effort to preserve its subculture. May they be able to figure out how Baguio can march toward even more progress while remaining charming and quaint for many, many more years to come.
Image credits: Nikki Boncan-Buensalido