PREWAR Manila had a different flavor. Malate and Ermita were the “places to be.” Noble men and women adorned the streets and horse-drawn carriages, also known as, were an all-too-familiar sight in the city. In 1899 Luneta was the promenade of choice where parades, marching bands, celebrations and even public executions took place. The famous “Tranvia,” an electric tram, plied the streets of Manila during the American Era until just before World War 2 broke out.
On Kalaw Avenue in Ermita, on one side of Luneta Park, is a nesting jewel that survived the bombings of the war. The glorious Luneta Hotel, named after its neighboring park, now also known as Rizal Park, was built in 1918 by Spanish architect Salvador Farre. In its time, it was one of the tallest buildings in the area, situated beside stone houses (bahay na bato) and storage houses (bodegas). It stood out as a landmark because of its French Renaissance architecture. In its glory days, the hotel was known for its Mansard Roofs, French windows and intricate grillwork on balconies overlooking Luneta Park and the main road, thus signifying the American influence in the area.
After becoming the second home of prominent people, dignitaries and city’s elite, it served as a brothel for the Americans during World War II era. It miraculously survived the extensive bombing of Manila during the war but was closed down in 1987, succumbing to the slow process of decay. It remained for many years in a decrepit and derelict state that people thought it would eventually be torn down and replaced by one of the towering condominiums sprouting all over the metropolis. However in 2008 the National Historic Commission together with the Heritage Conservation Society began to work on the hotel, which, by then, had already declared a historical landmark. It took six years to restore the hotel back to its grandeur.
Whoever thought we would have a national treasure that looks like a small piece of Europe right in the heart of Kalaw Avenue in Manila? During the Araw ng Maynila celebration in 2014, the Luneta Hotel finally reopened its doors to the public after a hibernation period of 27 years, welcoming guests with old-fashioned elegance.
It was on a Sunday when my adventure-filled heart brought me to the newly restored hotel by chance. On approach from the sidewalk, it seems as if I had jumped into a time machine as my upward gaze led to me to the intricate detail of the balconies, as well as the carvings that adorned the building. A plaque beside the building’s main doors briefly told its history, accompanied by a presidential decree to ensure the restoration of the hotel, as well as the other historical landmarks surrounding the area. I felt as if I had been taken back in time when I saw the Luneta Hotel signage.
I felt nostalgic even more as I entered the lobby and was greeted by gilded furniture arrayed against black and white tiles. The reception desk’s backdrop provided me with a quick imagery lesson as it showed how the hotel looked like in its glory days. It felt surreal to be there. The six-story building that used to tower over stone houses and bodegas is now dwarfed by the surrounding buildings, but its flavor and charm continue to stand tall.
We were led up the grand staircase that brought us to the bedrooms. Stamps on the header of the elevator jamb indicated the original date of the building’s construction. Original switch plates and convenience outlets from 1918 still adorn the walls and the rooms. To my surprise, as the door to one of the rooms was opened, I was greeted by a very sleek and very modern space that was in sharp contrast to the other interior spaces of the hotel. The room opened up to a more than 3-meter-high ceiling, a touch of stained glass and a double door leading to one of the elegant balconies. I stepped out onto the balcony and more visions of our rich history flooded my mind. It certainly was not difficult to imagine the old Manila that my grandparents told me about with this backdrop. The bed was huge and the bathroom was, again, surprisingly modern and elegant, as were the furniture. What grabbed my attention was a vintage phone that works perfectly. According to the very accommodating hotel staff, the bathrooms were fully renovated, and that some of the rooms were so big that they had to be divided into two. In total, the hotel has 27 spacious and elegant rooms, with function rooms at the upper floor level.
One cannot pass up a trip to the Luneta Hotel, especially if one has a fascination with history. It was definitely a trip back in time and as I stepped out of the hotel and back to modern day, I left it with a heart thankful that someone was bold enough to see the project through. It was, indeed, a big leap of faith to take a building that was in an advanced stages of disrepair and restore it back to its original glory. I’m extremely grateful that there are still people out there who care for our rich history. The new Luneta Hotel has risen to once again become a gem in the city and, hopefully, it shall serve as a beacon of hope to restore Manila back to its glory days. I look forward to seeing that day come to pass, and this vision keeps me hopeful.
Image credits: Nikki Boncan-Buensalido