By Cesar Cruz Jr.
A good paella is a labor of love, and only a few are willing to make the sacrifice. Paella has not only become a stamp of Spanish culture, but an invaluable part of its culinary identity as well. Luckily for us, Arrozeria Manila specializes in this dish, which according to its culinary wizards, is “as close as you can get to eating paella in Spain.”
In fact, the team behind the much revered Vask and Gallery Vask are the same team behind Arrozeria. Both Vask and Arrozeria share the same philosophy of high quality food, sustainable local ingredients, no pretensions, supporting local farm communities by patronizing their products—but the similarity stops there. Arrozeria , meanwhile, strives for a more traditional approach with a menu that is more relaxed, homier, comfort-driven, and with prices easier on the wallet.
In order to preserve the authenticity of Spanish flavors while remaining true to their philosophy of using local ingredients, chefs Ivan Saiz, Keith Fresnido and Jose Luis “ Chele” Gonzales teamed up with the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in Los Baños. They brought samples of bomba—the Spanish variety of rice typically used in paella and other rice dishes—for the scientists to study. Amazingly, it was discovered that the Ifugao heirloom variety tinawan had all the characteristics of bomba. The chefs, aside from setting out to secure their supply, were able to build a relationship with them in the process—meeting the people, understanding their planting and harvesting traditions, sharing meals with them, and even learning to cook the rice. In no time, the chefs whipped up paella that tastes as authentic as if you were in the seaside of Valencia, or perhaps, at a small family run place.
Difference of how Spaniards and Filipinos enjoy their paella.
When asked how he liked his paella, Chef Gonzales replied that he wanted his paella very al dente, thin, dry—just the way Spaniards like their paella, with more rice than meat. On the other hand, Filipinos like their paella wet and soft, and chunky with meat and vegetables. “ So in Arrozeria, we give the option. You grew up with that kind of paella. It is very disrespectful to say no. This is right. This is wrong. It is different. So people choose how they want the paella,” the star chef shared. He explained the characteristics that make a truly great paella: the integrity of the rice and the way one can feel each grain in the mouth; the thin layer that results in quick cooking and the prized soccarat or tutong; an intensely flavored stock that matches the main ingredient, the tastiness of the sofrito (the all-important base to many Spanish dishes that consists of garlic, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and paprika slow-cooked in olive oil); and the correct seasonings (not all paellas are flavored with saffron).
More than just paella
Like the traditional arrocerias in Spain, Arrozeria Manila features how rice is cooked in the different regions of Spain. Southern Spain prefers its rice dishes drier and favors paella; Northern Spain prefers wetter, soupier dishes, similar to risotto. The menu divides its rice dishes into Caldoso or Soupy, similar to our arroz caldo; Meloso or Saucy, somewhere between soupy and a risotto; and rissoto or creamy rice dishes similar to the Italian-style. There is also Fideua, thin noodles no longer than one’s pinky fingernail, cooked in the style of paella.
New Menu of Arrozeria
The new menu has been streamlined and special new dishes has been added. Among them are Lengua Frita (the recipe of which came from Gonzales’s mom), tender Angus beef tongue coated in bechamel sauce and breadcrumbs, before being deep-fried like croquetas; Arroz Gratinado Longaniza, an ode to our Filipino longaniza, combining house-made longaniza, broccoli, and garlic-rich aioli in a rice dish that is run under a broiler; Salpicon de Pulpo (octopus) bathed in capsicum and onion vinaigrette; Pimiento Rellenos, piquillo peppers stuffed with braised oxtail so intensely-flavored that its meatiness permeates throughout the peppers, and of course –a classic Chorizo y Gambas.
“Spanish cuisine in the last 15 years is No. 1 in the world for only one reason—because we share knowledge. Also, the restaurants push themselves to be the best in what they do,” Chef Gonzales beams with pride.
Arrozeria is no exception.
Arrozeria is on the 4th floor of the new Century City Mall along Kalayaan Avenue in Makati City. For inquiries and reservations, call (02) 894-1796 or send an e-mail to info@arrozeria.com.