THE moment Binibining Pilipinas International 2018 Maria Ahtisa Manalo sauntered onstage during the national costume competition of Miss International 2018, she cemented her status as one of the favorites to win. The lovely lass eventually finished in second place, undoubtedly bolstered by her Subanen-inspired attire, designed by Amir Sali, which she wore with flair and reverence.
Before she was named Miss Universe Philippines, Catriona Gray romped away with the Best in National Costume award, wearing a creation by Jearson Demavivas of Koronadal: “An authentic inaul cloth from Maguindanao is the base of the dress for which intricately incorporated sequins and rhinestone are overlaid to achieve a royal image of a Muslim princess.”
In pageants local and international, we get to see our beauty queens proudly wearing our traditional attires in their modern, fashionable interpretations. But what of the authentic outfits that inspired them?
I got to admire them up close at the “Parada ng Katutubong Kasuotan: Showcase of Traditional Attire,” the culminating activity of “Dayaw: Philippine International Indigenous Peoples Festival 2018” in Roxas City, Capiz, last month.
The word dayaw in Waray means papuri or “praise”; in Hiligaynon, “to take pride”; in Ilocos, “respect”; and in Davao, “good, valuable, superior or beautiful.” The festival, organized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA), is the biggest celebration of indigenous culture, attracting 250 delegates from 45 ethnolinguistic groups here and abroad.
“It is because of and for [indigenous peoples] that we hold this festival. It is for all of us so that we can return to our roots in order to move forward and that we can experience more vividly the cultural diversity of this country, a richness that we truly possess,” said NCCA Chairman Virgilio Almario, National Artist for Literature.
In early October, “the NCCA held an international conference on cultural statistics and creative economy. Creative economy is a recent concept brought about by the increasing roles of design, ideas and imagination in many industries in these times. It is also a belated recognition of creativity as a potent force in national economy and development,” Almario added.
At the showcase held at the Capiz Provincial Park, our inherent creativity as a people was on full sartorial display. The Ati (originating from Iloilo, Capiz and Guimaras) strutted in patadyong/tapis, a type of textile made from cotton, abaca and even polyester that is similar to malong. The difference is in the patadyong’s signature plaid/checkered patterns. The women wear it as skirts, and is used as baby hammocks and even portable bathroom and changing rooms during olden days.
The Jama Mapun from Palawan and Tawi-Tawi wore the Badjao Sablay. “Ito ay yari sa telang makikintab na may maluwag na pagkakatahi. Ang sablay ay katulad ng salawal na may kasamang parang balabal na tinatawag na kindang na patadyong. Mayroon din itong terno na pandong, o putong sa ulo. Ang sablay ay sinusuot lalo ng kinakasal at sa iba pang mahahalagang okasyong pang-Islam,” explained Harlyn D. Edenden, the group’s cluster head.
“The traditional attire of the people of Mountain Province, the Bontoc/Balangao, is composed of tapis [skirt], bakget [belt] and wanes [G-string] for the males. Women were topless before but later, lamma [blouse] for females were developed to be worn for protection and status symbol. These attires, colors, names, features and steps in wearing vary from town to town or even barangay to barangay,” cluster head Elamae Membrere said.
The most recognizable—and commercialized—attire belongs to the T’Bolis. “They have been noted for their back-loom textile tinalak woven from tie-dyed abaca fiber. Nationally popular too are their personal ornaments made of multicolored beads, their embroidered blouses and hats.
Small household industries have grown about their cast brass bolo handles, figurines and betel-nut containers and other ornaments, using the lost-wax process,” the NCCA noted.
The festival activities were held over three days in Capiz and nearby towns of Tapaz and Ivisan, spreading the mission of our culture-bearers (steered by the Capiz Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office head Alphonsus Tesoro) about the wealth of our culture, traditions and heritage.
“As the creative industries flourish, the more we take care of our traditions and heritage, which are springs of inspiration and from whose roots we blossom. People sometimes talk about the traditional and the modern as if they are two separate and opposing forces. In fact, it is just one long, continuing tradition, a tradition of creativity, a creativity with so many and diverse expressions and manifestations, and we are all differentiated and connected by it,” Chairman Almario said at the welcome ceremonies.
“Creativity actually is the impetus of human civilizations and development of societies and communities. It is at the heart of culture, and it has a very long history which we can glean from the traditions and other practices of the indigenous peoples.”
Image credits: FAITH YANGYANG