THANKS to Pagasa weatherman Amado Pineda of the 1980s, I got to hear about Catanduanes when there was a storm brewing in the Pacific. Just like Batanes in the north, the weather bureau maintains an observatory in Bato town, giving it the unenviable reputation of being a reference point for typhoons and directly into harm’s way.

It is no small wonder that Catanduanes earned the moniker “Land of the Howling Wind”—a not-so-cool tourism tagline which some local officials seemed to have coined, or at least tolerated.

But that was before. Today, local folk swear that perfect storms have somehow changed course and seldom hit them now—one of the few benefits of climate change, as far as Catandunganons are concerned. With the destructive cyclones now as rare as a blue moon, Catanduanes today is a land of calm and laidback living, and a tourism frontier beckoning the eternal wanderer. Many seasoned travelers and true-blue adventurers consider it a diamond in the rough—it has crude edges, but will glitter once polished and inevitably become a every girl’s (and wanderlust’s) new best friend.

Because of its location east of Bicol mainland, this island province by the Pacific Ocean is imbued with an aura of isolation and secrecy, making it a best-kept tourism secret for decades.

The capital town of Virac is the gateway to the province, with four times weekly flights from Cebu Pacific Air. On flight-less days, travelers can reach it via a three-hour Roro ferry ride from the Tabaco City port in Albay.

Its iconic tourist attraction is the “Majestic Waves” in Puraran Beach in Baras town, so-called because of its magnificent barrels which were discovered by European surfers. Long an open secret among wave riders, Puraran is largely undiscovered by local tourists because of its distance from Virac.

But during off-season in the third quarter of the year, the beach is a total picture of calm and serenity where children can frolic in its powdery sand and crystal-clear water amid jagged rocks.

The province’s long coastline terrain has gifted it with fine sand beaches in most parts of the island, the most popular of which are Batag and Igang in Virac. The latter is the site of Twin Rocks Beach Resort, the province’s top hotel which boasts of two new twin attractions—a zipline and an outdoor wall.

Situated in a cove, the resort is so-called because of two awesome rock formations. The resort is also ideal for kayaking because of its tranquil and shallow waters. At low tide, guests can even walk up to the twin rocks to see them up close.

The charming islands of Palumbanes and Panay, situated off the mainland, have their own share of mystic stories to share to beach bums.

Due to its mountainous terrain, Catanduanes abounds with waterfalls, whose enchanting cascades and refreshing waters never fail to cast a spell on nature lovers. Maribina Falls in Bato town is the most accessible and most frequented because of its shallow multilayered basin.

Up north in Gigmoto town, Nahulugan Falls boasts of a tall drop which also has three tiers of pools where bathers can soothe their tired muscles.

Despite its detachment from mainstream Bicol culture, Catandunganons display a remarkable degree of religiosity evident in the various religious spots in the province.

Most notable of these is the Spanish-era Bato Church which has been a bastion of faith and resiliency in the wind-swept island. Standing proudly by the Bato River, this postcard-pretty baroque church evokes the gentle and genteel ambiance of a bygone era, just like in a movie set.

Deep into the interior village of Batalay is the Diocesan Shrine of the Holy Cross, the final resting place of Augustinian Fr. Diego de Herrera who died in the area in 1576. The ill-fated priest, who journeyed with Spanish conquistadors Legazpi and Urdaneta, is acknowledged as the first Catholic missionary in the province.

Another frequented spot is the Batong Paluway Chapel in San Andres because of the thumbnail-sized river stone bearing the image of the Virgin Mary and is believed to have grown over the years. It is also interesting to note that most of the province’s tourist festivals are anchored around town fiestas to effectively incorporate merrymaking with the spirit of thanksgiving.

A must-see historic place is the Luyang Cave Park in San Andres where scores of locals where choked to death in the 17th century by Moro pirates by burning red pepper. The more intrepid souls can trek the cave which will lead to a wooded clearing a few hundred meters away.

Here’s another plus: the province will soon be an alternative gateway to the famed Caramoan group of islands in Camarines Sur. After basking in the glow of the gem of Catanduanes, guests can hie off to Codon Port in San Andres town 20 minutes away for a 45-minute boat ride to the famed Survivor islands.

Catanduanes may be a diamond on the rough, but glittering just the same. How much more if this crude jewel gets polished? I just can’t wait to see it refined.