THE loud rumble of thunder elicited what I thought was wonder, mixed with just a hint of amusement. We hardly ever get thunderstorms back home...maybe once every two years, remarked winemaker Blair Walter. “Home” is Bannockburn, Central Otago, where Mr. Walter crafts sublime Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay for Felton Road, the acclaimed New Zealand wine producer.Here, where the region shares the latitude of 45 degrees south with areas like Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Burgundy’s Côtes de Nuits, the climate is cool, not at all suitable for the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah—but ideal for Pinot Noir. Bannockburn is one of the furthest inland regions totally surrounded by mountains (most, snowcapped year-round), making it one of the driest, hottest and coldest of regions in New Zealand. 

And then a gust of wind tore the window open, sending the drapes flying—and the winemaker grappling with the window to shut it fast from the howling rain outside.  Welcome to our weather, I said. He let out a laugh. Just 10 minutes in our conversation, and he had already experienced weather so unlike New Zealand’s. Thanks to Lester Harvey of Zen Asia, exclusive distributor of Felton Road wines in the Philippines, I was having a precious one-on-one with the gifted winemaker, just before we all sat down to dinner at Le Soufflé in Rockwell Center. And thanks to Mr. Walter, I was learning.

Yes, he continued, they do get rain or snow at the end of the season, but not enough to ruin the grapes, as the wind quickly dries out the wetness. Unlike in Burgundy, the climate in Central Otago is more reliable, dry, with low rainfall and humidity. There is, therefore, very little threat of disease. This has made it easier for Felton Road to employ both organic and biodynamic methods in viticulture. A complete organic and biodynamic regime made for land sustainability and a natural balance for the vines. If they were already growing the best possible grapes, what more can be done to make the best possible wines?

Mr. Walter sees winemaking as 50-percent work in the vineyard, 35-percent to 40-percent quality of viticulture, and the last 5 percent to 10 percent the work of the winemaker. Organic compost to maintain soil fertility; irrigation only when necessary; careful pruning in winter to ensure low to moderate yields; harvesting by hand. He emphasizes a natural, hands-off approach to winemaking, letting the fruit express itself naturally with minimal intervention. Wild indigenous yeasts are preferred to cultured ones. A gravity-flow winery allows wine to be moved without pumping. Grapes for white wine are whole bunch pressed and the wine allowed to rest on its lees, without fining. The Pinot Noirs age 11 to 12 months (sometimes 18 months) in the finest Burgundian barrels, and are likewise unfined and unfiltered. Screwcap closures are used on all wines to maintain freshness, as well as to avoid the risk of cork taint.

And so the wines are vivid, pure, delicately perfumed and layered with complexity, down to the long, bright finish. The keyword is subtlety, with its nuances of finesse, elegance and harmony—as against power, oakiness and concentration. Chef Jessie Sincioco’s menu allowed the wines to shine, a judicious pairing of flavors and textures. Meursault? It was the first word that came to mind when I looked up from the Chardonnay 2007 and the creamy, cold avocado soup. Mr. Walter grinned. Felton Road Chardonnay is also aged in Burgundian barrels. Mocha? I thought both Pinot Noirs—the 2007 and the Block 3 2007—had that wonderful mocha nose, woven around fresh red fruit and silky, taut tannins. Mr. Walter gave a wide smile—that was a compliment, he said. As was everyone was gnawing at the bones of Chef Jessie’s slow-roasted rack of baby lamb, adorned with miso and blue cheese.

The Felton Road approach to winemaking is simple but painstaking. Production is small—12,000 cases a year. Organics was implemented in 2002, and by 2005, 100 percent of their vineyards, 32 hectares were under biodynamic cultivation. The price is high for such meticulous (or fanatic) winemaking, but Mr. Walter says that when optimizing quality, cost becomes immaterial. And what quality. Felton Road is acknowledged as one of New Zealand’s best producers, making consistently outstanding wines that reflect the singularity of their terroir. 

It is true. Visionaries take their own road to perfection.

Vinofile

FELTON Road wines are available through Zen Asia Inc: Room 505, Don Pablo Building, 114 Amorsolo Street, Legaspi Village, Makati.  (632) 816-9317, 816-0318, 812-5030, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it    

• Felton Road Dry Riesling 2008: Citrus and floral aromas, crisp with a long, lemon zest finish, P1,080
• Felton Road Riesling 2007: Delicate honey-floral aromas; subtle sweetness framed by bright acidity, P1,080
• Felton Road Chardonnay 2007: Toasted bread and lemon zest aromas; lemon curd and nutty flavors, ending with a vibrant, toasty finish, P1,410
• Felton Road Pinot Noir 2007, P1,900
• Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3 2007, P2,900