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Umu (867-3333, extensions 3343 and 3344) was designed by the renowned and award-winning global firm in Bangkok Design Worldwide Partnership, which created a unique concept for the restaurant, which boasts of a wall festooned with Japanese characters of various kinds of fish carved on wooden blocks. The design firm used materials such as wood, rough granite stone and onyx for the motif. 

The restaurant has its own al-fresco dining area that overlooks the tranquil garden and koi fish pond. The magnificent lighting and fixtures were designed by Theuer Eurolighting Consultancy Services and Artlight Express in Manila, respectively. The first-class fabrics for the seating and other appointments were provided by Jim Thompson of Bangkok. The restaurant has an area of 1,000 square meters, with a total seating capacity of 214 persons. It features a sushi station and robata counter; four teppanyaki tables that seat seven persons per table; three private pavilions that seat eight to 15 guests per pavilion; three tatami rooms that can accommodate eight to 10 persons per room; and the main dining area, with a seating capacity of 96, including a lanai by the enchanting garden.

According to Dusit public relations manager Danelle Ruth Palang, Umu—which means “born of nature”—was completed at a cost of $1 million. This is the reason the restaurant is a must-see and its food, a must-try.

Dusit’s decision to replace Benkay and Thien Duong restaurants with Umu seems wise, since locals and tourists have come flocking to the place to enjoy the authentic Japanese fare. One key to the success of Umu is its savory and delectable dishes prepared by Chef Kenichi Kanauchi from Sendai, Japan. Chef Kanauchi creates Japanese fusion delights, which he pulled together from his experience in places like China, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. Some foods, ingredients and condiments like campachi fish, Japanese snapper, wasabi, benitate (red flower) and myoga (ginger flavor) are imported from Japan.

The restaurant’s bestsellers on the appetizer list are agedashi tofu (deep-fried beancurd in tempura sauce), eda mame (boiled green soybeans in salt), unagi maki tamago (pan-fried fresh Japanese omelette stuffed with eel), koebi karaage (deep-fried fresh shrimps) and the appetizing kaki karaage (deep-fried oysters with Japanese salsa).

Some guests’ favorites are the Umu signature creations from the robata, teppanyaki, sashimi, sushi and famous tempura menu, which is this writer’s choices and recommendations. They also serve all kinds of noodles and rice dishes, as well as complete lunch and dinner set menus.

Nabe mono, or Japanese hot pot, which is popular around the world, sukiyaki and shabu-shabu are also among the reasons why customers come back to Umu over and over. Those who want a new culinary experience must try Umu’s rolled sushi, such as the Philippine maki (mango and crabstick roll with fish roe), spicy tempura maki, tekkamaki (three rolls of tuna), unagi-chuu maki (grilled eel), hosomaki-moriawase (three kinds of vinegared rice with tuna, pickled radish and Japanese cucumber), and futomaki (egg, cucumber, prawn, grilled eel, dried gourd shavings and dried fish flakes).

/ Photos by Popong Andolong