TRIO of duck foie gras terrine, pan-fried duck foie gras wrapped in bacon, and smoked duck magret with micro arugula and truffle cream

THERE are many misconceptions about French food, says Sommelier Selection wine hunter Jérôme Philippon, and he wants to correct these misimpressions in the latest edition of the France Food and Wine Festival 2008. This year’s festival features some of the most popular wines as chosen by sommeliers from the world’s most famous Michelin-star restaurants and paired with creations by four of the more popular foreign chefs in the country.

At the first France Food and Wine Festival dinner held on Wednesday at Je Suis Gourmand at The Fort, Philippon showed just what he meant by breaking down traditional stereotypes about wine pairing. He took a bold approach in combining an exquisite dinner created by Chef Marc Aubry with some rather unusual vintage decisions.

Rather than pairing a starter of foie gras with a sweet wine, he chose to go the other way and presented Aubry’s delectable creation of a trio of duck foie gras terrine, pan-fried duck foie gras wrapped in bacon and smoked duck magret with micro arugula and truffle cream, with a semisweet Chardonnay, the Bergerac Sec Vignoble des Verdots Grand Vin 2005. He admitted that foie gras is traditionally paired with a sweet wine to bring out its distinct flavor. But he chose to partner the dish with a semisweet wine.

The Bergerac cut down the rich flavor of the foie gras and duck slices so that you didn’t gag from an overload of duck liver, but it still left enough room for the duck liver’s naturally sweet taste to shine. And there were enough opportunities for the duck liver to be enjoyed in this dish. The terrine was smooth and creamy, the distinct foie gras taste lingering on the palate even after a sip of the Bergerac. The pan-fried duck liver was delightfully crisp on the outside and velvety sleek inside. Some would have found it raw, but cooking it a little more would’ve scorched the fat out of the liver.

Aubry reinterpreted the traditional bulalo in his pot-au-feu of fresh chanterelles and bone marrow. Chunks of bone marrow and delicately flavored forest mushrooms mingled in a rich consommé. To complement its vivid taste, Philippon partnered it with a red, the Côtes de Bourg Château Falfas 2006, a Cabernet, not too heavy, just light enough to complement the pot-au-feu. In fact, the Côtes de Bourg blossomed into its full flavor the longer it sat in the glass.

The main course was a slow roasted venison rack with red wine glace and confit of shallots, potato and celeriac glaze. Venison is a difficult game meat because for it to fully present its true taste, it must be served warm straight from the kitchen. At a wine dinner such as this, with about 100 guests, an amount of advanced preparation should have been done. Serving the venison a little later than what the meat  demanded had left it a little tough to the bite and the accompanying demiglace had even begun to settle.

Philippon brought out his best vintage for this course, a St. Joseph Domaine Chèze Cuvée des Anges 2001. This was a complex red, full bodied with just the right bit to go with the venison. For a Syrah, it had the vividness of a Cabernet Sauvignon. It had a nice finish, the flavors developing warmly on the palate as you finished your glass.

The cheese course was a hot Crotin de Chavignol in pastry with balsamic syrup cordon. It was paired with a Pouilly Fumé Domaine Redde Cuvée Majorum 2002.

The Crotin is a mature goat cheese with a subtle and slightly nutty flavor. It is often served with a green salad, as Aubry did, and goes well with a Sancerre or a Sauvignon Blanc, which the Pouilly Fumé is. (Wikipedia says the Crotin de Chavignol is the most famous produce of Chavignol, France, a small village that has only 200 inhabitants.)

The flavor of the Crotin lingered on the palate long after the dinner. Its smooth creamy texture and full flavor makes it a ideal light dinner for those watching their figures.

The Sauvignon Blanc Philippon chose had a strong minerality that is distinctive of whites from Loire Valley. It only means that the grape had a chance to siphon from the ground all the minerals it needed to develop its unique flavor. Unfortunately, the Pouilly Fumé wasn’t cold enough to deliver its true crisp flavor. Perhaps, it would have been a more riveting experience if it were ice-cold. It barely cut the cheese’s rich taste.

For dessert, we were served with fresh mango and mangosteen mille-feuilles with fresh rhubarb ice cream, paired with a Champagne Drappier Rosé Brut Val des Demoiselles.

The mango was sweet and tangy, the mangosteen delicate with just a hint of citrus, and the ice cream simply splendid. The champagne was delightfully light and refreshing, but somehow it should have been served separate from the dessert course. Their flavors clashed, the fruits overpowering the dryness of the champagne.

Sommelier Selection offers gourmets and wine lovers three more weeks of French cuisine and Michelin-star wines in its France Food and Wine Festival 2008.

Next week Chef Colin Mackay works his culinary wonders at Sala on October 15 and 16. This will be followed by Chef Cyrille Soenen at the newly opened Restaurant CiÇou in Hotel Celeste on October 22 and 23, and Chef Alain Rayé at La Régalade French Bistro on October 29 and 30.

All wine dinners are priced at P4,500 per person. Call Wendy Asensio at 840-3816, or e-mail sommelierselection@mac.com for reservations and inquiries.

Sommelier Selection is at 2295 Don Chino Roces Avenue, Magallanes, Makati City.

For inquiries: 840-4211, fax 892-9928, sommelierselection@mac.com or www.sommelierselection.info.

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