Organic wines from Bodegas Aruspide

THE pizza was incredible. Not even the spectacular scenery could distract me from how good it was. Before me, the sea spread out like a sheet of deep-blue silk, flanked by green-crested ridges. Dusk had fallen, painting the surroundings in the magical colors of twilight. Even the tomato sauce, smeared on the thin, crisp, blistered crust was the orange-red of the setting sun. Mozzarella blanketed spiced, herbed crumbled beef. “Did you make this?” I asked the man who came around just when I reached out for the last slice. The chef, who’s also called Mikel, did, he said. And that was how I got introduced to Club Punta Fuego GM Mikel Villaverde and Chef Mikel Arriet—at the same time. I had come for dinner, and if the pizza was an indication of what the chef could do, I knew I was on to a delicious evening ahead.

Mr. Villaverde had just come on board as general manager in August, from his post at the Pearl Farm, the Fuego-managed resort in Davao. He is enthusiastic about the new assignment, challenged by both the beauty of the property and the task to polish whatever rough edges it has. Already, changes are under way. Service staff at Il Jardinetto, the al-fresco restaurant (where I had my pizza moment) by one of the infinity pools, will soon be sporting new uniforms to bolster the Italian ambiance. The reception area is moving to the bright foyer in the building beside it, where a view of the sea will equally welcome guests. “Isn’t this beautiful?” It was more a statement than a question, as he brought out his Nikon D60. Not the new camera, but a photo of the restaurant at the Marina and its bar overlooking the sea and the boatyard. The bar is being spruced up as the place to have cocktails. Renovations are in the works at most of the dining areas, including the San Diego, the club’s main restaurant where Mikel Arriet, the Basque chef, holds court—and where “Dégustacion Tour 150” awaited me.

There were 11 items on Chef Mikel’s menu, not counting the leg of jamon on the carving block. Prep time and cooking had taken two days, but the inspiration for the menu took the better part of his recent trip to Spain. Seafood, fowl, lamb and pork, vegetable and fruit came together in a carefully orchestrated symphony of flavors and textures. Hot or cold, grilled, caramelized, braised, fried or roasted, crowned with foam, or “gelatined” for effect, they came in small, artfully plated portions—a take-off from the tapas style so dear to Spain. Chef Mikel had also collaborated with Tita Trillo to do the pairing with organic wines from Bodegas Aruspide in Valdepeñas. A sweet Shiraz started off the first six dishes. The Agora crianza, a medium-bodied, sweetly ripe Tempranillo, showed off the pork terrine with shrimp and arugula. A bright, zingy Airen was a winner with the braised salmon, garnished with crushed, frozen fresh pineapple. But it was the lamb with honey—which had been cooking in the bain-marie since eight that morning—that elicited the most applause. And the decadent warm pumpkin cake with blue cheese, oozing a creamy liquid center, which reminded me of a molten chocolate cake. 

The dinner was timed to take all of 150 minutes (hence the title, “Dégustacion Tour 150”) but we went overtime as we lingered over the Agora crianza and debated over which of the trio of chocolate squares were “sour,” “bitter” or “refreshing” as the chef had spiced them. Please fill out the rating cards I left on the table, said Chef Mikel, finally coming out of the kitchen to take a bow.

I didn’t bother with the cards. But I’d make the 180-minute drive from Manila to Club Punta Fuego anytime to eat that pizza again—at sunset.

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THE pizza was incredible. Not even the spectacular scenery could distract me from how good it was. Before me, the sea spread out like a sheet of deep-blue silk, flanked by green-crested ridges. Dusk had fallen, painting the surroundings in the magical colors of twilight.

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