New Zealand Rib Eye, Katre-style

Finally, we were all seated together, red wine poured out in the ready, and Chef Roxs, coming from his kitchen dish in hand, was headed our table. The rib eye steak from New Zealand, which he had spiced up and grilled, was going to go “under the knife.”

Cooks

Nancy Reyes-Lumen

We each have our favorite haunts for our favorite dishes. For me, the destination for a reasonably priced Black Angus Steak is Katre Mediterranean Restaurant, located along Dr. Lazcano Street just off Tomas Morato Avenue in Quezon City. Chef Roxs Cailao is the resident chef—and owner. He knows “Med” cuisine well, having mastered the use of exotic spices to put that patina on the meats and salads served at his popular restaurant.

When it comes to the menu and we have special requests, Chef Roxs bends a little for regular patrons, such as classmates from college, business associates and, more so, boyhood friends from the University of the Philippines “area”. It’s not rare that he would also give in to the request of customers, being very customer-friendly, as long as the dish comes out of the kitchen with a certain Med flair. And this is done mostly with his array of sauces.

On one plate, there would be several streaks of colorful sauces: beetroot purée (in magenta), mustard (in bright yellow), horseradish (white) and cilantro (bright green). The cumin spice, dreaded by those not in the know of how dried spices work when cooked, becomes a magical addition to the flavors of the dishes. Chef Roxs has the knack to “spice up” a dish in the broad sense of Med flavors, including the exotic side of African and Middle Eastern spices like the use of sumac (or sumaq). This is a reddish spice powder derived from berries grown in the Middle East and some parts of Italy. It has a pleasant, fruity, slightly tart note that goes well with meats and seafood and even vegetarian fare.

‘Puede ba,’ Chef...?

SO one night we came to Katre with several cuts of good-quality New Zealand Rib Eye, the best yet. Could we test the goodness of this beef, Chef? He checked the marbling and gave it the go. One steak was crusted with a spice rub which looked like a combination of rosemary, thyme, sumac, paprika, cumin, sea salt and peppercorn. It was pan-fried in olive oil, plated with beetroot mashed potatoes and garnished with brunoise (a mix of finely diced veggies slowly cooked in butter, used as garnish for soups, salads, etc.).

The other version was plain grilled in all the good, well-marbled quality of New Zealand beef (pricey but definitely worth every tender, juicy, tasty, umami bite) which he topped on a bed of sautéed orzo (rice-shaped pasta). This version was finished in extra-virgin olive oil.

At the table, if not quick enough, one would have missed a second serving. Everyone took a bite. But one bite was enough to entice us. The mouthfeel of the steaks was succulent in every bite. Spice-rubbed or plain, New Zealand Rib Eye’s claim to fame prevailed under the scrutiny of the foodies around. Chef Roxs commented that one can only create a dish as good as the ingredients that are utilized. His two versions ought to be on the new, expanded menu line of Katre’s. Steaks are a big deal on the budget, but a really good cut of quality beef such as these will make it worth a fine meal.

Nancy’s Notes

§          In selecting good beef, and you want top quality, go for New Zealand Rib Eye. And select steaks that are a little thick with good marbling all around. The fat marbling is what will mainly flavor the steak when grilled.

§          Simple grilled steak: rub with sea salt and peppercorn, and that’s it!

§          Make sure the grill is scrubbed clean before use.

§          To pan-fry: use olive oil with a little butter. The skillet must be smoking hot when you put in the steak—this method sears the surfaces and seals in the juices.

§          When ordering steak, insist on medium-rare doneness. If you find it a bit bloody, it will be easier to remedy than if you ordered it medium-well that comes to you “medium well-done.” Ooops!

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Finally, we were all seated together, red wine poured out in the ready, and Chef Roxs, coming from his kitchen dish in hand, was headed our table. The rib eye steak from New Zealand, which he had spiced up and grilled, was going to go “under the knife.”

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