Wrestling with Riesling

Fermentations

Cecile G. Mauricio

FIRST, there is the bottle, long and tapered unlike the usual wine bottle with “shoulders.” Then there is the low alcohol level with some examples just batting at 7 percent, giving the impression that the wine is wimpy and bland.  And then, because the wines are virtually oak-free, they are deemed “unfashionable,” swimming against the current tide of rich, buttery whites that have had time in new barrels. Though still misunderstood and bypassed in favor of the wines made with the more familiar Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling is considered the noblest of all white-wine grapes. Here is why.

Prized for its versatility, Riesling can be made into a wide range of styles—from the bone-dry to the unctuously sweet, from light and simple, to rich and full-bodied. Its aromatic repertoire is just as varied, reflecting fruits and flowers, minerals and honey. And because Riesling has higher acid levels than most wine grapes, its wines can be cellared for a longer time, outliving even many red wines. The combination of high acidity and low alcohol makes it lighter than other wines, thereby making it an excellent and willing partner for food.

Riesling rules in Germany, its home ground, where arguably the best Rieslings are made in the widest spectrum of styles. It grows as well in Alsace, Australia, northern Italy, Australia and New Zealand, with limited plantings in Canada and the United States. But wherever it is planted, Riesling remains true to its inherent character while reflecting the nuances of climate and soil. In Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region, famous for its vineyards on steeply inclined slopes that extend toward the river, comes the lightest, most ethereal Rieslings in the world, their subtle sweetness balanced by soaring acidity. But in the Pfalz region, where the slopes are gentler and the weather warmer, the wines are drier and medium-bodied.Alsace Rieslings tend to be drier with a mineral quality, shot through with citrus, green and stone fruits, and often need time in the bottle before they unfurl into full glory. In Australia’s cooler Clare Valley and Eden Valley regions, examples are loaded with exuberant mango, guava and lime notes, most of them displaying the oily, petrolly whiff characteristic of aged Riesling.

Navigating through the listing of Rieslings in Manila’s wine shops can be daunting, especially when confronted with those from Germany. Difficult as they are to read, German wine labels indicate the sweetness levels of the wines. Trocken means “dry” and Halbtrocken, “half-dry.” If these words are not on the label, assume that the wine will have some residual sugar. Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese describe sweetness in ascending order, with Trockenbeerenauslese the richest and sweetest of all. Here are some recommendations from my drinking buddies.

n Jay Labrador

Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett 2006 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese 2006, and Dr. Loosen Beerenauslese 2006—all from Wine Depot. There is also a Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Kabinett 2005 at Marks and Spencer! From Brumms Quality Wines, I particularly favor the following producers: Robert Weil, Gunderloch and Bassermann-Jordan. The new Schloss Lieser Kabinett is also very good. From outside Germany, I very much like the Trimbach Cuvée Frederic Emile Vendanges Tardives 2001 from Alsace. Wente from California is also very nice. Like Arnie, I prefer Rieslings with a bit of sweetness as it balances the natural acidity of the grape. 

n Arnie del Rosario 

Dr. Loosen’s Beerenauslese Riesling and Bernkasteler Kabinett (sold by Wine Depot);

Gunderloch Nackenheim Spatlese Riesling, Von Buhl Riesling Kabinett and St Urbans-hof Riesling. The latter three are all from Brumms. As you can see, I am partial to sweetish Rieslings and don’t really like the dry styles too much.

 n Bill Stone

• Domaine Ostertag Alsace Riesling Clos Mathis 2001

• Schlossberg 2000 Albert Mann, Alsace Riesling Grand Cru

• Spy Valley Dry Riesling (New Zealand), from Zen Asia

• Claymore Joshua Tree Riesling 2007 (Clare Valley, Australia), from Zen Asia

 I have a bottle of the Lorentz Alsace Grand Cru Riesling Vielles Vignes 2003 from Säntis, and I discovered the Bestheim Alsace Riesling at Terry Selection. Learning to appreciate Riesling can be a bit of a struggle, but perhaps only in finding the right style that suits your taste—and your wallet.

And, please, say “rees-ling,” not “ress-ling.” n

LEA SALONGA

Fairy Tale Continues

‘It’s a very humbling experience.” And so goes Lea Salonga, winner of the 1990 Laurence Olivier Award for Outstanding Performance by an Actress in a Musical, along with, a year later, the Outer Critics Circle Award, the Drama Desk Award and the Tony Award, all for the same category, all for the Claude-Michel Schönberg-Alain Boublil blockbuster musical Miss Saigon, produced by theater impresario Cameron Mackintosh.

Gab Fab: VJ Drei in the MYX

Every day, Andrei Felix, aka VJ Drei, takes us on a journey. On radio, he brings his avid listeners inside his mind as he rattles off his views on different issues that affect his listeners in between playing the latest music on Maxx FM. On TV, he takes us inside the court as he reports statistics and other basketball-related stuff in the National Collegiate Athletic Association on Studio 23. Meanwhile, on MYX, he dishes out the latest music happenings in MYX News and takes us back in time in MYX Backtrax.

Show & Tell:

She was focused on the show

THE recent verbal skirmishes among sexy stars in one of the usual disrobing events produced and organized by a men’s magazine got our attention. Well, they do this all the time anyway, the usual catfights that lead to instant publicity.

More on Christian Bale’s ‘family feud’

THE British press is spinning like a top: Not only is The Dark Knight (with an English director and a Welsh star) making history at the box office, now it has two tawdry off-the-screen subplots. Heath Ledger’s overdose death in January would seem to have very little to do with Christian Bale’s recent family feuding, but not according to the Daily Mail Online.

Fermentations:

Wrestling with Riesling

FIRST, there is the bottle, long and tapered unlike the usual wine bottle with “shoulders.” Then there is the low alcohol level with some examples just batting at 7 percent, giving the impression that the wine is wimpy and bland.  And then, because the wines are virtually oak-free, they are deemed “unfashionable,” swimming against the current tide of rich, buttery whites that have had time in new barrels. Though still misunderstood and bypassed in favor of the wines made with the more familiar Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling is considered the noblest of all white-wine grapes. Here is why.

Finally, we were all seated together, red wine poured out in the ready, and Chef Roxs, coming from his kitchen dish in hand, was headed our table. The rib eye steak from New Zealand, which he had spiced up and grilled, was going to go “under the knife.”

Learning Curve: An evening with Mega Mom

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Something Like Life:

Having it all...or not

Women have come a long way from the time of our mothers and grandmothers. We can choose to be anything we want to be. Go anywhere we want to go. But perhaps it is time to sit back a bit and realize that we cannot do everything.

Tea, the British Way

ALEXANDER PUSHKIN found “ecstasy” in a glass full of tea. Chinese sage T’ien Yiheng drunk the brew to “forget the din of the world.” And Queen Victoria demanded hers be served, along with a copy of Times, the moment she ascended to her throne. In the days of yore, tea was the drink of nobility, philosophers and luminaries of the literary world. Since its discovery in China 5,000 years ago, it has built empires, smoothed diplomatic relations, and fueled the obsession of more than a few nations. Perhaps no other beverage is as steeped in historical, spiritual and ceremonial significance as tea. And now more than ever, it is embraced by young and old alike for its many health benefits.

Zara Jane Juan could have been anything she wanted. A former Miss Hawaiian Tropic International finalist and Bb. Pilipinas, she is beautiful and statuesque—the kind of person you would expect to be gracing the covers of fashion magazines, and hosting glamorous events.