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AS world
financial markets wobble and bonuses shrink, the macho
male is going out of fashion. Paris designers showing
their spring-summer collections recently banished the
tie and introduced a gentler take on masculinity,
leaving the Gordon Gekko look in the dust. With
thousands of revelers pouring into the streets for the
annual Gay Pride parade, French designer Franck Boclet
proudly flew the pink flag at Emanuel Ungaro—but there
was no message intended.
“I
didn’t even know it was Gay Pride day today!” he said.
“It just so happens that fuchsia has always been
Ungaro’s signature color.”
Boclet
celebrated the house heritage with a shocking pink
backdrop, but used the color sparingly in his
collection.
After
all, he made his name at Francesco Smalto cutting suits
with a defiant swagger. Here, they were rendered in
checked patterns with pants that stretched suggestively
across the thigh.
As a
result, a pink linen blazer seemed slightly adrift,
though a purple cardigan top with a loose matching parka
was a plausible option.
French
actor Samuel Le Bihan, known for his tough-guy image,
said he had worn a pink T-shirt last summer but would
not be repeating the experience.
“I
tried, but I just can’t do it,” he said.
The
Smalto image has loosened up since Swiss-Korean designer
Youn Chong Bak took over the design reins three seasons
ago.
Models
lounged around an Italianate fountain in a chic mansion
in her crisp cotton jackets paired with tailored cream
bermudas, conjuring images of the spoiled millionaire
Dickie Greenleaf in The Talented Mr. Ripley.
Best of
all were the waistcoats cut away in the front in the
style of morning coats. These came in white linen with a
tone-on-tone satin trim, or in a denim version slung
over an unbuttoned white shirt.
“I think
it’s always more pleasant to see men who have attitude
but nonetheless have a slightly soft side, because
people are sick of machos,” Chong Bak said.
That
mood carried over to the Hermes catwalk, where the focus
was on bare necklines with sailor-style sweaters that
framed the collarbone.
This
might seem like a bad move for a company famed for its
luxurious silk ties, but French designer Veronique
Nichanian provided plenty of alternatives. They ranged
from plain shawls worn loose over the chest to brightly
patterned silk squares jauntily tied around the neck.
The signature Hermes scarf even doubled as a cummerbund,
worn simply over a white linen shirt and dark pants.
Alongside the catwalk shows, dozens of designers show
their collections to buyers and editors in show rooms.
At the
headquarters of Japanese label Issey Miyake, a video
showed designer Dai Fujiwara and his team checking color
swatches against plants in the Amazon rain forest.
Those
colors ended up on outfits including a silk suit
featuring dark stripes melting into olive green, thanks
to a computerized weaving process. Casual options
included a camouflage-patterned denim jacket with
matching cut-off pants. |