WHAT? Champagne in wine glasses, not in flutes? Because bubbly is not just for “toasting”—and works the way still wines do with food. The better, too, to experience the nuances of vintage Champagne, explained Randy Uson, business development manager for the Manila office of Moët-Hennessy Asia-Pacific. The occasion was the Veuve Clicquot Vintage dinner at the Makati Shangri-La’s Red, a rare opportunity to experience the Vintage Rich 2002, Vintage Reserve 2002 and the Vintage Rosé 2002, paired with Chef Ruediger “Rudi” Lurz’s creations. Vintage Champagne is made from the best grapes, only in a year when the chef de cave of a Champagne house deems the harvest exceptional; 2002 was such a year for the house of Clicquot Ponsardin. And because on the average, only three vintages are declared in a decade, vintage Champagne is expensive—and serious wine, indeed.

The style of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagnes has always been described as fairly rich, medium to full in the mouth. Discovering this was the highlight of the dinner—and the reason why generous wine glasses, not flutes, were the receptacles of choice for the succession of vintage Champagnes. Cocktails began with the Brut NV (in flutes), unmistakable in its famous bright yellow label—vibrant and fresh, with the nutty, freshly baked-bread bouquet of classic Champagne. Then came the Vintage Rich 2002, its distinctive off-dry finish a lovely foil to Chef Rudi’s tuna carpaccio speckled with foie gras. The Vintage Reserve 2002 recalled aromas of buttery brioche and marzipan, ending with a rich, citrus curd finish. The Vintage Rosé 2002 was a revelation—full-bodied, strawberry and spice wrapped in a gorgeous, silky mouth feel. Doesn’t it remind you somehow of red wine? Because—Mr. Uson volunteered the information—it is blended with red wine from Bouzy, the wine-producing village within the Champagne region, where Pinot Noir is king. That dominancy of Pinot Noir is characteristic of the Veuve Clicquot style, giving its wines both power and grace.

Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin, daughter of a textile maker from Reims, married François Clicquot, heir to banking and woolen-manufacturing businesses that had a minor interest in Champagne production. Widowed at 27, Nicole-Barbe took over the Champagne business her father-in-law had founded and ran it successfully until her death in 1886. Blending astute business sense with a talent for promotion, she played an important role in establishing Champagne’s status as the celebratory beverage in the circle of the wealthy and European nobility.

One of her famous exploits was that of sending a secret shipment of Champagne to Russia in 1814, in defiance of Napoleon’s blockade. And in Champagne lore, the process of remuage is forever linked to this formidable veuve Clicquot (widow Clicquot) under whose tutelage the way to a clear, sparkling wine was developed. Legend has it that she cut holes into her kitchen table so she could stand the wine bottles upside down after she had given them a shake to dislodge the sediment. This precursor of remuage was refined by Antoine Müller, her chef de cave, who then developed the pupitre, the wooden “A” frame with holes at a 45-degree angle so that the bottles can be positioned from horizontal to almost vertical, sending the sediment slowly toward the neck bottle.

The house of Clicquot, founded in 1772, has been part of the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy group since 1987. Like the wines that now carry her name, the story of how a young widow channeled her grief into building one of the most celebrated Champagne houses is the truest example of grace under pressure. 

Oh, Mamma Mia!

WHEN news came that Meryl Streep was playing the lead role in the frothy musical Mamma Mia!, many in Hollywood wondered if the two-time Academy Award winner had taken leave of her senses.

How will Eva Mendes ever stay sober?

NO, I’m not suggesting Eva Mendes can’t conquer her substance-abuse problems. What really worries me is how she will ever possibly stay sober, having to deal with some of the most clueless people on the planet: the pack of celebrity journalists who seem to be an inescapable part of the recovery program for troubled starlets.

This Heart of Steel

WITH the start of Codename:Asero, GMA’s new offering on prime-time TV, come Monday, everybody’s just but happy for the return of Heart Evangelista. This time, she’s daring enough to bare some skin. Snippets of her belly-dancing scene, which have been shown as appetizer of things to come some weeks ago, should be familiar to millions of viewers by now.

Fermentations: Grace Under Pressure

WHAT? Champagne in wine glasses, not in flutes? Because bubbly is not just for “toasting”—and works the way still wines do with food. The better, too, to experience the nuances of vintage Champagne, explained Randy Uson, business development manager for the Manila office of Moët-Hennessy Asia-Pacific.

Cooks: As American As...

IF you were schooled in Reading with the “David and Ann” books, there are scenes situated in an American home that are still remembered. I used to dream of drinking fresh milk like Ann did, and someday growing up to be like the mom wearing heels and nice clothes at home and baking cookies and pies for the kids.

Learning Curve: Leading through tough times

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Warm-Up Advice From an Ancient Master

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Wellness Q & A: Up against a wall of boredom? We can work on that

I’ve recently changed gyms. However, I’m discovering the new gym and I are a poor fit. I need more variety. At my former gym, I had access to a pool, indoor running track and group classes, as well as the usual assortment of cardio machines and weights.