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    The Paris Mystique
    This exhibit of photographs of Paris by French photographers is like a tour of France, historically as well as geographically. But it does not confine itself to the grand boulevards and the ringing moments of history; it also gives us a glimpse of the underside of the city, as well as its more intimate views which may hold personal memories lived or imagined.
     

    OBJECTIF: PARIS—Paris through the eyes of the most famous French photographers—is the title of the exhibit at the Ayala Museum that is ongoing until June 27, with the cooperation of the Mairie de Paris and the Alliance Française de Manille. A precious show, it shows how Paris was seen through the eyes of its great photographers, including Henri Cartier-Bresson (1908-2004) and Eugene Atget (1854-1927), who raised the medium of photography into an art. 

    Cartier-Bresson was the first to be known as a “photojournalist,” a term which is of widespread currency today. To him is also attributed the concept of the “decisive moment” in photography which refers to that split-second instant in which image and form (composition and tone) cohere together to create a significant visual meaning. Cartier-Bresson traveled around the world in order to be where the action was. Aside from documenting the Nazi occupation of Paris and the later triumphal march of the victorious forces in Paris, he was also in Peking when the People’s Republic of China was declared in 1950. He pursued his photographic career in the midst of the great events in history. He captured the highs and lows of Paris, from the panoramic perspective taken from the Notre Dame Cathedral to small street scenes. At the same time, he also had an eye for the oblique, off-center view, the small epiphanies of everyday life, as in the solitary man jumping over a puddle in a quiet moment behind the grinding locomotives of the Gare St. Lazare. Cartier-Bresson, who worked with a Leica camera, established the Magnum Photographic Agency in 1947.

    In contrast, the photographer Eugene Atget is described as a recluse who confined himself to Paris, exploring all its corners and surprises with his large-format wooden bellows camera. He must have covered all the streets of Paris in all seasons, from its chimneys to its shop windows. There is a particular series of windows of the city done by several artists, all reflecting the distinct personalities of their inhabitants, from quaint to orthodox, sometimes bringing out contrasts between indoors and outdoors, with each proceeding from a singular and pure consciousness born, nevertheless, of the place.

    The photographic prints gathered mainly from the first half of the 20th century are necessarily in black-and-white, which was the available film technology of the period. And, as the photographs show, the black-and-white images were quite suitable to the experience of exploring and reflecting on the city, as though one moved through layers of tone from dark to gray to light in tree-lined roads, while the fine silhouettes of branches and leaves formed a tracery on the upper field of vision. Textures played a part in all these—the texture of stone mainly, in the massive gray walls of Notre Dame and the ravelins of the bridges down the Seine

    Medieval Paris was a maze of twisting houses, rundown apartments and muddy streets but these gave way to massive city planning in 1852, when Emperor Louis-Napoleon III commissioned Baron George-Eugene Haussmann to rebuild Paris. The old city underwent a radical upheaval when most of it was sacrificed to build a rational system of grand boulevards radiating from a city center. This urban scheme, likewise, influenced the course of history when it was used to suppress Parisian uprisings, such as the Paris Commune, by the efficiency with which the royal troops could now deal with them. The king’s highway led directly from the Palace of Versailles to any flashpoint in the city—a concrete expression of royal centralization and control.

    This city planning, however, had its good historic moments captured in photography, as when, after the Second World War, Charles de Gaulle led the French armies in a triumphal procession through the avenue of the Arc de Triomple surrounded by euphoric crowds (a scene captured in the film Casablanca with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman). This, in fact, was the acme of the French mystique, marked by many songs and poems of the war and resistance and collaboration (even the songs of famed chanteuse Edith Piaf are deceptively patriotic but one of her most romantic has an undeniable collaborationist content playing to Aryan values—“I would dye my hair blonde for you”). Love songs and accordion music always form part of the mystique of Paris, full of references to carousels, the organ grinder and his monkey or cat, outdoor cafés, chestnut streets in images steeped in a postwar nostalgia and romantic melancholy.

    The decade of the ’60s saw another renovation of Paris under Charles de Gaulle’s Minister of Culture Andre Malraux, who ordered all the buildings of the city to be scrubbed of all grime and soot and restored to their original resplendent condition. Another milestone of the city’s history was the building of the glass pyramid of the Louvre in 1989 by the Chinese-born, US-educated architect I.M. Pei. From here, one then goes to the contemporary period when the postmodern Pompidou Center, defying all previous styles, was built in the ’70s, and black-and-white film turns into color Ektachrome with miles and miles of bathers, sun-worshippers with the flimsiest of clothes, basking in the sun on a French beach.

    This exhibit of photographs is like a tour of France, historically as well as geographically. But it does not confine itself to the grand boulevards and the ringing moments of history; it also gives us a glimpse of the underside of the city, as well as its more intimate views which may hold personal memories lived or imagined. For this, we thank the great photographers who have preserved these visual mementos for our generation.

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